Plumbing Repair Checklist

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Diagnose

Identify the plumbing symptom

Is it a leak, drip, clog, running toilet, low pressure, no hot water, or strange sounds? Pinpointing the problem narrows your troubleshooting.

Locate the source of the problem

Trace water stains, drips, or wet spots back to their origin. Water travels along pipes and surfaces, so the source may not be directly above the damage.

Check water pressure

Turn on multiple faucets. Low pressure everywhere points to the main supply. Low pressure at one fixture means a local blockage or valve issue.

Inspect visible pipes for damage

Look under sinks, in the basement, and around the water heater for corrosion, green stains on copper, white deposits, or bulging spots.

Check the water meter for hidden leaks

Turn off all water in the house, then check if the meter is still moving. If it is, you have a hidden leak that needs professional attention.

Shut Off

Find your main water shutoff valve

Usually near the front of the house where the main line enters. Know this location BEFORE an emergency — it saves minutes when water is spraying.

Test the main shutoff valve

Turn it clockwise to close. If it's stuck, don't force it — use penetrating oil and try again after 15 minutes. A broken valve is worse than a slow one.

Locate fixture shutoff valves

Every sink, toilet, and appliance should have individual shutoff valves. Turn them off before working on that specific fixture.

Know how to shut off the water heater

Turn off the gas valve or flip the breaker BEFORE shutting off the cold water supply. Running an empty water heater destroys the heating element.

Leaks

Fix a dripping faucet

Most drips are caused by a worn washer, O-ring, or cartridge. A single dripping faucet wastes 3,000+ gallons per year.

Repair a leaking pipe joint

Tighten compression fittings first. If that doesn't work, apply plumber's tape or pipe joint compound. A pipe repair clamp is a good temporary fix.

Fix a leaking supply line

Braided stainless supply lines are the #1 cause of catastrophic home water damage. Replace any that are bulging, corroded, or over 10 years old.

Repair a leaking P-trap

The curved pipe under the sink catches debris and blocks sewer gas. Leaks usually come from loose slip nuts — hand-tighten first, then a quarter turn with pliers.

Address a leaking toilet base

Water pooling around the toilet base usually means a failed wax ring. The toilet needs to be removed, the old ring scraped off, and a new ring installed.

Drains

Clear a bathroom sink clog

Remove the stopper, pull out hair and debris, then flush with hot water. A zip-it tool or bent wire hanger reaches clogs a few inches into the drain.

Unclog a kitchen sink

Start with boiling water, then try baking soda and vinegar. If that fails, plunge with a flat-bottom plunger or use a drain snake.

Fix a slow-draining bathtub

Hair is the usual culprit. Remove the drain cover, pull out the clog with needle-nose pliers, then flush with hot water and baking soda.

Use a plunger correctly

Use a cup plunger for sinks and a flange plunger for toilets. Cover the overflow hole, create a seal, and plunge vigorously 15-20 times.

When to use a drain snake

If plunging fails, a drain snake (auger) reaches 15-25 feet into the pipe. Feed it slowly, crank when you hit resistance, then pull back to extract the clog.

Toilet

Fix a running toilet

A running toilet wastes 200+ gallons per day. The three most common causes: worn flapper, faulty fill valve, or float set too high.

Replace a toilet flapper

The flapper is a $5 rubber seal at the tank bottom. Turn off the water, flush to empty, unhook the old flapper, and snap on the new one. 10-minute fix.

Adjust the toilet fill valve

If the tank overfills, water runs into the overflow tube. Adjust the float height so water stops 1 inch below the overflow tube top.

Fix a toilet that won't flush properly

Weak flush usually means low tank water level, a clogged rim jet, or a partially blocked trap. Check water level first — it should be at the tank line.

Water Heater

Check the water heater temperature

Set to 120°F for safety and efficiency. Higher settings waste energy and risk scalding. The dial is on the front of gas heaters or behind an access panel on electric.

Test the pressure relief valve

Lift the lever — water should flow freely and stop when released. A valve that drips constantly or doesn't release at all needs replacement. This is a critical safety device.

Flush the water heater tank

Sediment buildup reduces efficiency and tank life. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve, open it, and flush until the water runs clear. Do this annually.

Check for water heater leaks

Inspect the top fittings, T&P valve discharge pipe, and the bottom of the tank. A leak from the bottom of the tank itself usually means the tank is failing.

Call a Pro

Know when to call a plumber

Sewer line backups, burst pipes, gas water heater issues, slab leaks, and anything behind walls requires a licensed plumber. Don't risk water damage savings.

Get multiple plumbing quotes

For non-emergency work, get 2-3 quotes. Plumbing rates vary widely — $100-300 for a service call. Ask for flat-rate pricing over hourly when possible.

Decide: repair or replace

For fixtures over 15 years old with recurring problems, replacement often costs less long-term. A new faucet is $150-400 installed vs. $100-200 per repair visit.

Prevent future plumbing problems

Install drain screens, don't pour grease down drains, replace supply lines every 10 years, and know where your shutoff valves are.

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