Plumbing Repair FAQ

Start with a plunger — it works on sinks, tubs, and showers, not just toilets. For sinks, block the overflow hole with a wet rag and plunge vigorously 15-20 times.

If plunging does not work, try these in order: 1. Remove the drain stopper and clean out hair and debris by hand 2. Use a drain snake (hand auger) — feed it into the drain until you hit the clog, then rotate and pull 3. Remove the P-trap under the sink (place a bucket underneath first) and clean it out 4. Pour boiling water slowly down the drain (not for PVC pipes — use hot but not boiling water) 5. Try baking soda + vinegar: pour half a cup of each, wait 30 minutes, flush with hot water

What NOT to do: Do not use chemical drain cleaners like Drano or Liquid-Plumr. They damage pipes over time (especially older metal pipes), create toxic fumes, and make the problem worse if they do not clear the clog — now a plumber has to work with caustic chemicals in the pipe.

Call a plumber if: The clog affects multiple drains (indicates a main line issue), the plunger and snake do not work, or water is backing up from another fixture when you use one.

A running toilet wastes up to 200 gallons per day and can add $50-100 per month to your water bill. The three most common causes, in order of likelihood:

1. Worn flapper — The rubber flapper at the bottom of the tank is not sealing properly. Drop a few drops of food coloring into the tank. If color appears in the bowl within 15 minutes without flushing, the flapper is leaking. Replace it ($5-10 at any hardware store). Turn off the water, flush, unhook the old flapper, and hook on the new one. Takes 5 minutes.

2. Float set too high — If the water level is above the overflow tube, water continuously drains into the bowl. Adjust the float: on a ball float, bend the arm down slightly. On a cup float, squeeze the clip and slide it down the rod. The water level should be about 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube.

3. Faulty fill valve — If adjusting the float does not stop the running, the fill valve may need replacement ($10-20). Turn off the water, flush, disconnect the supply line, unscrew the old valve, install the new one, and reconnect. Most fill valves are universal and come with instructions.

All three repairs are straightforward DIY jobs that require no special tools.

Low water pressure has different causes depending on whether it affects the whole house or just one fixture:

Single fixture — low pressure: - Clogged aerator: Unscrew the aerator from the faucet tip, soak in vinegar overnight, scrub with a toothbrush, and reinstall. This fixes most single-fixture pressure issues. - Partially closed shutoff valve: Check the valve under the sink and make sure it is fully open. - Clogged supply line: Older supply lines can accumulate sediment. Replace the line.

Whole house — low pressure: - Partially closed main shutoff: Check that the main valve is fully open. Sometimes it gets bumped. - Failing pressure regulator: Most homes have a bell-shaped regulator near the main shutoff. These last 10-15 years. When they fail, pressure drops. Replacement costs $200-400 with a plumber. - Corroded galvanized pipes: If your home has galvanized steel pipes (pre-1970s homes), internal corrosion restricts flow over time. The only real fix is repiping ($4,000-15,000). - Municipal supply issue: Check with neighbors. If they have the same problem, the issue is with the water main or a broken pipe in the street. Call your water utility.

Sudden loss of all pressure is usually a main break (city or your supply line) — call a plumber immediately.

A faucet dripping once per second wastes 3,000 gallons per year. The fix depends on the faucet type:

Single-handle faucets (most common in modern homes): 1. Turn off the water supply under the sink 2. Remove the handle (usually a set screw under a decorative cap) 3. Pull out the cartridge (you may need a cartridge puller tool — $10) 4. Take the old cartridge to the hardware store and buy an exact match ($15-40) 5. Install the new cartridge, reassemble, and turn the water back on

Two-handle faucets: 1. Determine which side is leaking (turn off one supply at a time) 2. Remove the handle and the packing nut 3. Pull out the stem and inspect the washer at the bottom 4. Replace the washer (or the entire stem if it is corroded)

Ball-type faucets (single handle that moves in all directions): - Buy a ball faucet repair kit ($15-20) that includes all the springs, seats, and O-rings. Replace everything at once.

The entire job takes 30-60 minutes for a first-timer. Watch a YouTube video for your specific faucet brand before starting — the disassembly order matters and varies by model.

Troubleshoot based on whether you have a gas or electric water heater:

Gas water heater — no hot water: 1. Check the pilot light — if it is out, follow the relighting instructions on the unit label. If it will not stay lit, the thermocouple is likely failed ($150-250 to replace). 2. Check the gas valve — make sure it is in the ON position, not PILOT or OFF. 3. Check the temperature dial — it should be set to 120°F. If it was bumped to a lower setting, adjust it and wait 30-60 minutes. 4. Listen for the burner — you should hear it ignite when the temperature drops. No ignition may mean a failed gas valve ($200-400).

Electric water heater — no hot water: 1. Check the circuit breaker — electric heaters use a dedicated 240V breaker. Reset if tripped. 2. Press the reset button — located behind the upper access panel on the tank. If it trips again, the thermostat or heating element is failing. 3. Check both heating elements — electric heaters have an upper and lower element. A failed upper element produces no hot water. A failed lower element produces less hot water. Elements cost $20-40 each and can be replaced with a socket wrench.

Both types: If you have hot water but it runs out quickly, sediment buildup in the tank may be reducing capacity. Flush the tank. If the unit is over 10 years old and needs a major repair, consider replacement.

Here are typical plumbing repair costs including parts and labor:

Minor repairs ($100-$400): - Faucet repair: $150-350 - Toilet repair (flapper, fill valve, wax ring): $150-400 - Garbage disposal reset/unjam: $75-150 - Showerhead replacement: $100-250

Moderate repairs ($200-$800): - Drain clearing (snake): $150-500 - Pipe leak repair (accessible): $200-800 - Garbage disposal replacement: $250-500 - Outdoor faucet repair: $150-350

Major repairs ($500+): - Water heater repair: $200-900 - Sewer line clearing: $200-600 - Water heater replacement (tank): $800-2,500 - Water heater replacement (tankless): $2,500-4,500 - Slab leak repair: $2,000-6,000 - Whole-house repiping: $4,000-15,000

Service call/diagnostic fee: $75-200 (often credited if you proceed with the repair) Emergency/after-hours surcharge: 50-100% premium

Always get 2-3 quotes for non-emergency repairs. The cheapest is not always the best — compare scope of work, materials used, and warranty on labor.

DIY-safe repairs (no special tools or training needed): - Replace faucet cartridges, washers, and O-rings - Replace toilet flappers, fill valves, and wax rings - Clear simple drain clogs with a plunger or hand snake - Replace showerheads - Replace supply lines (braided stainless steel hoses) - Replace a garbage disposal (if you are comfortable with basic wiring) - Install a new toilet (same footprint as old one) - Replace sink P-traps - Fix a running toilet - Flush a water heater

Call a professional for: - Anything involving gas lines (gas water heater, gas supply) - Sewer main line clogs or backups - Slab leaks (under foundation) - Water heater installation (permits required) - New fixture rough-in (moving or adding supply/drain lines) - Backflow preventer installation or testing - Any work requiring a permit - Frozen pipe thawing if you cannot access the pipe - Persistent sewer gas smell throughout the home

The rule of thumb: if it involves water supply connections visible under a sink or in a toilet tank, you can probably DIY it. If it involves pipes inside walls, under floors, or anything involving gas, call a pro.

Prevention (do this before cold weather): - Disconnect and drain all outdoor hoses - Shut off interior valves to outdoor faucets and open the outdoor faucet to drain - Insulate exposed pipes in unheated areas (garage, crawl space, attic) with foam pipe insulation ($3-5 per 6-foot section) - Keep your thermostat at 55°F or higher, even when away - During extreme cold (below 20°F), let faucets on exterior walls drip slightly and open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls

Thawing a frozen pipe: 1. Open the faucet that the frozen pipe feeds — this relieves pressure and lets you know when flow resumes 2. Apply heat starting at the faucet and working toward the frozen section 3. Use a hair dryer, heat lamp, heating pad, or towels soaked in hot water 4. NEVER use a torch, propane heater, or open flame — this causes house fires 5. Continue applying heat until full water pressure is restored 6. Check for leaks — a pipe may have cracked from the ice before you thawed it

If you cannot locate the frozen section, if the pipe is behind a wall, or if you suspect a pipe has already burst, call a plumber immediately. A burst pipe can flood your home in minutes once the ice thaws.

Sewer smell in your home means sewer gas is entering through a broken seal or dried trap. Check these causes in order:

1. Dried P-trap (most common) — Every drain has a U-shaped pipe that holds water to block sewer gas. If a drain hasn't been used in weeks, the water evaporates. Fix: Run water in every drain for 15-20 seconds, especially guest bathrooms, basement floor drains, and laundry drains.

2. Loose or failed toilet wax ring — If the smell is strongest near a toilet, the wax ring between the toilet and the floor flange may be compromised. Signs: the toilet rocks, or you see water at the base. Fix: Replace the wax ring ($5-15 for the ring, 30-60 minutes for DIY).

3. Cracked or disconnected vent pipe — The plumbing vent pipe (usually visible on your roof) allows air into the drain system and vents sewer gas above the roofline. If it cracks or disconnects in the attic, sewer gas enters the house. This requires a plumber.

4. Clogged vent pipe — Birds, leaves, or ice can block the vent opening on the roof, preventing proper venting. A plumber can clear it or you can carefully inspect from the roof.

5. Damaged sewer line — A cracked or separated sewer line under or near the house can release sewer gas. Requires camera inspection and professional repair.

Do not ignore sewer smell — sewer gas contains methane (flammable) and hydrogen sulfide (toxic in high concentrations).

Water hammer is a loud banging or thudding noise in your pipes when a faucet or appliance valve shuts off quickly. It happens because fast-moving water slams to a stop, creating a shockwave in the pipe. Over time, water hammer can loosen pipe joints and cause leaks.

Fixes, in order of simplicity:

1. Recharge air chambers — If your house has air chambers (short vertical pipes near fixtures), they may be waterlogged. Turn off the main water supply, open all faucets to drain the system completely, close all faucets, then turn the water back on. This refills the air chambers with air.

2. Secure loose pipes — Banging may be from pipes moving against joists or studs. Inspect visible pipes in the basement or crawl space and add pipe clamps or foam padding where pipes contact framing.

3. Install water hammer arrestors — These small devices ($10-20 each) absorb the shockwave. Install them near the fixtures causing the noise — typically washing machine valves, dishwasher connections, and quick-closing faucets. They screw onto the valve like a supply line.

4. Reduce water pressure — If your water pressure exceeds 80 PSI, water hammer is more likely. Install or adjust a pressure reducing valve at the main supply.

5. Install a larger expansion tank — If you have a closed plumbing system (backflow preventer on the main), thermal expansion from your water heater can cause hammering. An expansion tank absorbs this pressure.

Supply lines — the flexible hoses connecting faucets, toilets, and appliances to the water supply — are one of the most overlooked causes of catastrophic water damage. A burst supply line while you are away from home can cause tens of thousands of dollars in damage.

Replacement schedule: - Rubber supply lines: Replace every 8-10 years, or immediately if you see cracking, bulging, or discoloration - Braided stainless steel: Replace every 15-20 years, or if you see rust, kinking, or corrosion at the fittings - Washing machine hoses: Replace every 5 years with braided stainless steel hoses — these are under constant pressure and are the #1 cause of residential supply line failures

How to replace: 1. Turn off the shutoff valve below the fixture 2. Place a towel and small bucket under the connection 3. Unscrew the old line from both the shutoff valve and the fixture (adjustable wrench or channel locks) 4. Take the old line to the hardware store to match the length and fitting sizes 5. Hand-tighten the new line, then snug with a wrench (quarter turn past hand-tight — do not over-tighten) 6. Turn the water on and check for leaks at both connections

Cost: $5-15 per braided stainless steel line. The 10 minutes spent replacing a $10 supply line can prevent a $15,000 water damage claim.

A continuously running toilet is wasting water right now. Here is a quick fix sequence:

Immediate fix (stop the waste): Remove the tank lid and check if the water level is above the overflow tube. If yes, adjust the float down (see below). If the water is below the overflow tube, the flapper is leaking.

Flapper test and fix: 1. Drop food coloring into the tank water 2. Wait 15 minutes without flushing 3. If colored water appears in the bowl, the flapper is leaking 4. Turn off the water supply valve (behind the toilet, turn clockwise) 5. Flush to empty the tank 6. Unhook the old flapper from the overflow tube ears 7. Hook on the new flapper ($5-8) — bring the old one to match size 8. Turn the water back on and test

Float adjustment: - Ball float: Bend the brass arm down slightly so the ball sits lower - Cup float: Squeeze the adjustment clip on the float rod and slide it down - The water level should be about 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube

Fill valve replacement (if nothing else works): - The fill valve may be failing and not shutting off properly - Universal fill valves ($10-15) fit almost all toilets - Turn off water, flush, disconnect supply line, unscrew old valve, install new one (15 minutes)

A running toilet is one of the easiest and cheapest plumbing fixes. Do not wait — it can waste 200 gallons per day.

Garbage disposal problems fall into three categories:

Disposal does not turn on at all: 1. Press the reset button on the bottom of the unit. If it clicks and stays in, try the switch again. 2. Check the circuit breaker — disposals are usually on a dedicated or shared kitchen circuit. 3. If the reset button pops out immediately after pressing, the motor is jammed (see below) or the motor has burned out.

Disposal hums but does not spin (jammed): 1. Turn it OFF immediately — running a jammed disposal burns out the motor 2. Find the hex wrench that came with the disposal (or use a 1/4-inch Allen key) 3. Insert it into the hex socket on the bottom center of the disposal 4. Rotate back and forth to free the jam 5. Use tongs (never your hand) to remove whatever is jamming the blades 6. Press the reset button and test

Disposal runs but does not grind well: - Dull blades: Grind a tray of ice cubes to sharpen - Weak motor: The disposal may be undersized for your use. Standard is 1/2 HP; heavy use needs 3/4 to 1 HP. - Old age: If the disposal is 10+ years old and grinding poorly, replacement ($250-500 installed) is the practical answer

Disposal leaks: - From the top: The mounting ring has loosened. Tighten it or replace the mounting gasket. - From the bottom: Internal seal failure. The disposal needs replacement. - From the side: The discharge pipe connection is loose. Tighten or replace the gasket.

Different pipe materials have different lifespans and failure modes:

Replace immediately: - Polybutylene (gray plastic, installed 1978-1995): These pipes are known to fail suddenly and catastrophically. Many insurance companies will not cover homes with polybutylene pipes. Replace with PEX or copper. - Lead pipes (pre-1930s homes): Lead leaches into drinking water and is a health hazard. Replace with copper or PEX.

Replace when showing symptoms: - Galvanized steel (40-50 year lifespan): When you see low water pressure throughout the house, rusty or brown water, or frequent leaks at joints. Corrosion is internal and progressive — once one section fails, others follow. - Copper with pinhole leaks (50-70 year lifespan): Pinhole leaks from pitting corrosion indicate the pipe walls are thinning throughout the system. If you have had 3+ pinhole leaks in different locations, whole-house repiping is more cost-effective than chasing individual leaks.

Monitor but no rush: - Copper in good condition: Can last 70+ years. Annual visual inspection is sufficient. - PEX: 40-50 year expected lifespan with no known widespread failure modes. - PVC/ABS drain pipes: 50+ years. Replace only if cracked or damaged. - Cast iron drain pipes: 75-100 years but can deteriorate from the inside. If you hear gurgling drains or experience frequent backups, have a camera inspection done.

Whole-house repiping costs $4,000-15,000 depending on home size, pipe material, and accessibility. PEX is the most common modern choice due to lower cost, flexibility, and freeze resistance.

In any plumbing emergency, the first step is always: STOP THE WATER.

Step-by-step emergency response: 1. Shut off the water at the nearest shutoff valve. For a toilet overflow, use the valve behind the toilet. For a sink, use the valves underneath. If you cannot find or reach the local shutoff, go to the main water shutoff for the whole house. 2. If water is near electrical outlets, switches, or your breaker panel, turn off electricity to that area at the breaker panel. Do not touch anything electrical while standing in water. 3. Stop the immediate damage — move valuables, electronics, and furniture away from the water. Use towels, buckets, and a wet/dry vacuum to remove standing water. 4. Document the damage with photos and video before cleanup (your insurance company will need this). 5. Call a plumber. For true emergencies (burst pipe, sewer backup, gas leak), call an emergency plumber. For urgent but manageable situations (contained leak, single clogged toilet), call first thing in the morning for a regular-rate appointment.

True emergencies (call immediately, any hour): - Burst pipe or uncontrollable leak - Sewer backing up into the house - Gas smell near water heater (call gas company first, then plumber) - No water to the entire house - Flooding from any plumbing source

Keep your main water shutoff location labeled and accessible. Practice turning it off so you can do it quickly in an emergency. Seconds matter when water is flooding your home.