How to Fix a Dripping Faucet
A dripping faucet is more than an annoyance — it's money circling the drain. That steady drip can waste thousands of gallons a year and often signals worn-out internal parts that will only get worse. The fix depends entirely on your faucet type, but once you identify it, the repair is straightforward and takes less than an hour. Most replacement parts cost under $10, making this one of the highest-return plumbing repairs you can do yourself.
Time Required
30-45 minutes
Difficulty
Easy to Moderate
When to Call a Pro
Corroded valve seat or old galvanized pipes
Step-by-Step: Fixing a Dripping Faucet
Turn off the water supply
Locate the shutoff valves under the sink — there will be one for hot and one for cold. Turn both clockwise until they stop. Then open the faucet to drain any remaining water and release pressure in the lines. If the shutoff valves don't fully stop the flow, you'll need to shut off the main water supply.
Identify your faucet type
This is the critical step that determines your repair approach. Compression faucets have separate hot and cold handles that you tighten down to close — they use rubber washers. Cartridge faucets have smooth-operating handles with a removable cartridge inside. Ball faucets have a single handle over a dome-shaped cap. Ceramic disc faucets have a single lever with a wide cylindrical body underneath.
Disassemble the faucet handle
Pry off the decorative cap (often marked H or C) with a flathead screwdriver. Remove the screw underneath and pull the handle straight up and off. For stubborn handles, use a handle puller — do not pry with pliers, which can crack the handle or damage the finish. Place a towel over the drain to catch small parts.
Replace the worn component
For compression faucets, unscrew the stem and replace the rubber seat washer at the bottom (held by a brass screw) and the O-ring on the stem. For cartridge faucets, pull the cartridge straight out (note its orientation) and replace it with an identical one. For ball faucets, a repair kit includes springs, seats, and O-rings — replace them all. For ceramic disc faucets, remove the cylinder and replace the neoprene seals on the bottom.
Reassemble and test
Put the faucet back together in reverse order. Before turning the water supply on, make sure the faucet handle is in the off position. Open the shutoff valves slowly — if you have a ceramic disc faucet, turn the water on very gradually to avoid cracking the disc with a sudden pressure surge. Check for drips with the faucet fully off, then run it and check the base and handle for leaks.
Understanding Faucet Types
- Compression (oldest style): Found in many older homes. Uses rubber washers that compress against a valve seat. Most common cause of drips — the washers wear out from repeated use.
- Cartridge (single or double handle): A self-contained cartridge controls water flow. When it wears, water seeps past internal seals. Replacement cartridges are brand-specific, so bring the old one to the store.
- Ball (single handle): Common in kitchens. A slotted metal or plastic ball rotates to control temperature and flow. Multiple small parts (springs, inlet seals, O-rings) can all cause drips.
- Ceramic disc (most modern): Two ceramic discs rotate against each other. Very durable, but the lower seals can harden over time. These faucets rarely drip, but when they do, replace the seals rather than the entire disc assembly.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using the wrong washer size: Even 1/16" off will cause a continued drip. Bring the old washer to the hardware store for an exact match.
- Over-tightening the packing nut: This causes the handle to be stiff and can crack the stem. Tighten just enough to stop leaking around the handle.
- Ignoring the valve seat: If the seat is corroded or pitted, a new washer won't seal properly. Inspect it with a flashlight — it should be smooth and even.
- Forcing a stuck cartridge: Some cartridges bond to the housing over time. Use a cartridge puller (often included in repair kits) rather than pliers, which can break the cartridge and leave pieces inside.
- Not coating O-rings with plumber's grease: Dry O-rings can pinch and tear during reassembly. A thin coat of silicone-based plumber's grease helps them seat correctly and last longer.
Pro Tips
- •Take photos during disassembly: Faucet internals have a specific order and orientation. Photos save you from guessing during reassembly, especially with ball faucets that have multiple small parts.
- •Replace all wear parts at once: If you're already disassembled, replace every washer, O-ring, and seal — not just the one that looks worn. The others are the same age and will fail soon.
- •Bring the old parts to the store: Faucet parts vary by brand, model, and even manufacturing year. Having the originals ensures you get exact replacements.
- •Check both hot and cold sides: If one side is dripping, the other is likely close behind. Repair both while you have the faucet apart to avoid doing this job twice.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know what type of faucet I have?
Compression faucets have two handles and feel "rubbery" when you tighten them. Cartridge faucets have one or two handles that move smoothly without increasing resistance. Ball faucets have a single handle on a rounded cap. Ceramic disc faucets have a single lever over a wide cylindrical body.
Why does my faucet drip even after I replaced the washer?
The valve seat may be corroded or pitted. Use a seat wrench to remove and replace it, or a seat grinder to resurface it. Also check that you used the correct washer size and that the O-rings are in good condition.
How much water does a dripping faucet waste?
A faucet dripping once per second wastes about 3,000 gallons per year — enough to fill a swimming pool. Even a slow drip of one drop every few seconds adds up to over 500 gallons annually.