Drywall, Tape, and Paint Before Cabinets
Once all rough-in inspections pass, it's time to close up the walls and get them painted. Smart remodelers paint before cabinets go in - you'll thank yourself when you're not trying to cut in around upper cabinets with a tiny brush.
Quick Summary
5-10 days
Moderate to Hard
$500-2,000
Why This Step Matters
Drywall and painting might seem like a straightforward step, but the sequence matters enormously. Painting before cabinets is one of those professional tips that saves hours of frustration and produces better results. Once upper cabinets are mounted, you'll be working around them, brushing into corners, and hoping not to drip on your new cabinetry.
This is also your last chance to verify all electrical outlets, switches, and plumbing access points are in the right locations. Once drywall goes up, changes become expensive patches rather than simple moves.
Before You Start: Inspection Checklist
Never close walls before getting all required inspections. Once drywall covers the work, inspectors cannot verify code compliance, and you'll be tearing it out if they find issues.
- Electrical rough-in inspection - All new circuits, outlets, and wiring verified
- Plumbing rough-in inspection - Supply lines, drains, and gas lines approved
- HVAC inspection - Ductwork and venting verified (if modified)
- Structural inspection - If walls were moved or beams added
- Insulation inspection - If exterior walls were opened (some jurisdictions)
Important: Get written sign-off or inspection cards for all rough-ins. Take photos of all exposed work before covering - they're invaluable if questions arise later during final inspection or future repairs.
Step-by-Step Drywall Process
Step 1: Hang the Drywall
Start with the ceiling (if applicable), then walls. Use 1/2-inch drywall for most applications, or 5/8-inch for fire-rated assemblies or better soundproofing.
- Hang sheets horizontally to minimize seams and make taping easier
- Drive screws every 12-16 inches into studs, keeping them slightly below the surface
- Cut outlets and switch boxes with a rotary tool or drywall saw
- Leave 1/8-inch gap at floor (covered by baseboard later)
Step 2: Tape and First Coat
Apply paper or mesh tape over all joints, then cover with joint compound. This first coat embeds the tape and creates the foundation for smooth walls.
- Paper tape is stronger; mesh tape is easier for beginners
- Use a 6-inch knife for the first coat
- Fill all screw heads with a thin coat
- Apply inside corner tape and outside corner beads
Step 3: Second and Third Coats
Each subsequent coat should be wider than the last, feathering out the compound to create invisible joints.
- Wait 24 hours between coats (or until completely dry)
- Use a 10-inch knife for second coat, 12-inch for third
- Feather edges thin so they blend into the wall
- Light sanding between coats removes ridges and bumps
Step 4: Final Sanding
This step makes or breaks the finished appearance. Sand with a pole sander using 120-150 grit screens, working under a bright work light held at an angle to reveal imperfections.
- Wear a dust mask - drywall dust is extremely fine
- Seal off the kitchen to contain dust
- Run your hand over joints - they should feel perfectly smooth
- Vacuum walls and wipe with a damp cloth before priming
Step 5: Prime and Paint
Primer seals the porous drywall and creates a uniform surface for paint. Then apply two coats of your chosen color.
- Use PVA drywall primer on new drywall
- Tint primer toward your final color for better coverage
- Apply two coats of paint, allowing proper dry time between
- No need to cut in at cabinet locations - just roll full walls
Pro Tip: This is the only time you can easily paint the entire wall. Take advantage and apply paint all the way to the floor - it will be covered by cabinets and flooring anyway, and ensures complete coverage behind them.
Choosing the Right Paint
Kitchens are high-humidity, high-traffic, grease-prone environments. Your paint choice needs to handle all of this.
| Sheen | Durability | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Semi-Gloss | Excellent - wipes clean easily | Areas near stove, sink, high-touch zones |
| Satin | Very good - slight sheen hides imperfections | Most kitchen walls - good balance |
| Eggshell | Good - low sheen, moderate washability | Walls away from cooking zone |
| Flat/Matte | Poor - absorbs stains, hard to clean | Not recommended for kitchens |
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Rushing the Drying Time
Applying the next coat before compound is fully dry causes bubbling, cracking, and poor adhesion. It should be uniformly white, not gray or brown. Use fans for circulation, but give it time.
Skipping the Primer
New drywall absorbs paint unevenly, causing "flashing" where joints show through. Primer seals the surface and ensures even paint absorption. Don't skip it - one coat of primer saves two coats of paint.
Not Sanding Between Coats
Each coat of mud leaves ridges and imperfections. Light sanding between coats creates a smooth foundation for the next layer. This is especially visible in semi-gloss finishes.
Painting After Cabinets
Waiting to paint until cabinets are installed means cutting in around every cabinet edge, working in tight spaces, and risking drips on your new cabinets. Paint now while walls are wide open.
FAQ
Why paint before installing kitchen cabinets?
Painting before cabinet installation is significantly easier because you have full access to the walls without obstructions. You can use rollers freely, don't need to cut in around cabinets, and any drips won't damage your new cabinets. It also eliminates tedious painting behind cabinets later.
How long should drywall mud dry between coats?
Allow 24 hours between each coat in normal conditions. In humid environments or for thicker applications, wait 48 hours. The mud should be completely dry (uniformly white, not gray) before applying the next coat or sanding.
What paint sheen is best for kitchen walls?
Semi-gloss or satin finishes are best for kitchen walls because they resist moisture, clean easily, and hold up to grease and cooking splatters. Avoid flat finishes - they absorb stains and are difficult to clean.
Do I need to pass inspection before hanging drywall?
Yes, all rough-in inspections must pass before closing walls. Covering uninspected work can result in failed final inspections and potentially tearing out drywall to expose the work. Always schedule and pass these inspections first.