How to Install Upper Kitchen Cabinets
Upper cabinets require a different approach than base cabinets - you're fighting gravity while trying to achieve perfect alignment. The secret weapon is a simple ledger board that takes the struggle out of holding heavy cabinets in position.
Quick Summary
1-2 days
Moderate
$50-150
The Standard 18-Inch Rule
The industry standard for upper cabinet height is 18 inches above the countertop. With a standard 36-inch counter height (34.5-inch base cabinet plus 1.5-inch countertop), this puts the bottom of upper cabinets at 54 inches from the floor.
This 18-inch gap provides a practical balance: enough space for countertop appliances like coffee makers and toasters, adequate headroom while working at the counter, and reasonable reach to the lower shelves of upper cabinets.
| Gap Height | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| 15 inches | More storage, easier upper cabinet access | Less headroom, limited appliance space |
| 18 inches (standard) | Balanced storage and workspace | May feel crowded for very tall people |
| 20 inches | More open feel, better for tall users | Harder to reach top shelves |
Pro Tip: In kitchens with low ceilings (8 feet or less), consider extending upper cabinets to the ceiling with either taller boxes or stacked cabinets. This eliminates the dust-collecting space above cabinets and provides valuable extra storage.
The Ledger Board Method
A ledger board is the simplest solution for upper cabinet installation. It's a temporary support that holds cabinets at the exact right height while you secure them to the wall - essentially a shelf that the cabinets rest on during installation.
How to Install a Ledger Board
- 1.Choose your board - A straight 1x4 or 1x3 works well. Make sure it's truly straight (sight down the edge)
- 2.Mark the line - Using your level line at 54 inches (or your chosen height), position the top edge of the ledger at this mark
- 3.Find studs - Locate studs along the ledger path; you need at least two solid anchor points
- 4.Screw it in - Use 2.5-inch screws driven into studs. Don't worry about holes - they'll be behind the cabinets
- 5.Verify level - Double-check that the ledger is level along its entire length
With the ledger in place, you can rest each cabinet on it, freeing your hands to drill and secure. After all cabinets are mounted, simply unscrew the ledger and patch the small holes if they'll be visible (usually they're hidden behind the base cabinet backsplash or countertop).
Step-by-Step Installation
Step 1: Prepare the Work Area
Before lifting any cabinets, set yourself up for success.
- Install the ledger board at your marked height (see above)
- Mark all stud locations above the ledger line where screws will go
- Remove cabinet doors and shelves to reduce weight during installation
- Have shims, screws, level, and drill easily accessible
Step 2: Start at a Fixed Reference
Just like base cabinets, start at a corner or next to a fixed element.
- Corner cabinets need special attention - both walls must be addressed
- Over-the-range cabinets often align with the range below
- Cabinets above the sink typically center on the window
- Upper cabinets should align visually with base cabinets below
Step 3: Position and Level First Cabinet
The first cabinet sets the standard for all others.
- 1.Lift cabinet and rest it on the ledger board
- 2.Push it firmly against the wall
- 3.Check level across the face - shim between cabinet and wall if needed
- 4.Check plumb (vertical) on both sides
- 5.Confirm cabinet face is flush with your marked line
Step 4: Secure to Wall Studs
Upper cabinets carry significant weight and must be anchored properly.
- Pre-drill through the back rail at each stud location
- Use 2.5-3 inch cabinet screws with washer heads
- Drive screws through the upper mounting rail (top of cabinet back)
- Add screws through lower rail if cabinet spans multiple studs
- Minimum two screws per cabinet into studs - never just drywall
Important: Upper cabinets fail when improperly anchored. A cabinet full of dishes can weigh over 100 pounds. Always hit studs - if a stud doesn't align, use a French cleat or cabinet hanger system rated for the load.
Step 5: Connect Adjacent Cabinets
Join cabinets together before moving to the next one.
- Position the next cabinet on the ledger against the first
- Use cabinet clamps to pull face frames perfectly flush
- Pre-drill through face frames where they meet
- Connect with 1.25-inch screws, hidden inside the cabinet
- Verify level and plumb before securing to wall
Step 6: Finish and Clean Up
Complete the installation with attention to detail.
- Remove the ledger board (carefully - don't bump cabinets)
- Reinstall doors and shelves
- Adjust hinges so doors close properly and align with each other
- Install any filler strips between cabinets and walls
- Check that all doors and drawers operate smoothly
Aligning with Base Cabinets
Upper and base cabinets should visually align for a professional appearance. This means the face of the upper cabinet should be directly above (or very slightly behind) the face of the base cabinet.
- Check vertical alignment - Hold a long level vertically from base to upper cabinet face; they should touch or the upper should be 1/4 inch recessed
- Match reveals - The gaps between adjacent cabinet doors should be consistent from base to upper
- Center over base cabinets - Where possible, upper cabinet edges should align with base cabinet edges below
- Mind the microwave - Over-range cabinets are often shorter (12-15 inches) to accommodate microwaves or range hoods
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Skipping the Ledger Board
Some installers try to hold cabinets in place while drilling. This leads to crooked installation, strained backs, and potential injury. The ledger takes 10 minutes to install and makes the job vastly easier.
Not Removing Doors First
Doors add significant weight and swing open during installation, getting in the way and potentially damaging hinges. Remove them first - they're easy to reinstall after cabinets are secured.
Mounting to Drywall Only
Upper cabinets absolutely must hit wall studs. Drywall anchors aren't sufficient - the cabinet will eventually pull away from the wall, especially when loaded with heavy dishes.
Ignoring Wall Imperfections
Walls are rarely perfectly flat or plumb. Use shims between the cabinet back and wall to create a level cabinet face, even if there's a gap behind. The shims will be hidden.
FAQ
How high should upper cabinets be above the counter?
Standard height is 18 inches between countertop and upper cabinet bottom. You can go as low as 15 inches (more storage, less headroom) or up to 20 inches (more workspace, harder to reach). Consider household member heights.
What is a ledger board and why is it important?
A ledger board is a temporary straight board screwed to the wall at cabinet height. It acts as a shelf to hold cabinets during installation, freeing your hands to drill and secure. Without one, you'd need multiple people to hold heavy cabinets in place.
Should I install upper cabinets before or after base cabinets?
Many pros prefer uppers first since you have more room to work without base cabinets in the way. However, if using countertop height as a reference, you'll need bases first. Either works with accurate measurements and level lines.
Can upper cabinets go all the way to the ceiling?
Yes, this is popular for eliminating the dust-collecting space above cabinets. You'll need either taller cabinet boxes or stacked cabinets with crown molding. Plan this before ordering since it affects cabinet sizes needed.