How to Service Your Grill for the Season

Deep Cleaning Checklist

• Cooking grates: Remove grates and scrub with a brass or stainless steel grill brush. For heavy buildup, soak grates in a trash bag with a cup of ammonia for a few hours, then scrub. Avoid wire brushes on porcelain-coated grates—use a nylon brush instead. Re-season cast iron grates with a thin coating of vegetable oil after cleaning.
• Burner tubes: Remove burners if your model allows it. Use a pipe cleaner, bottle brush, or thin wire to clear each burner port. Spiders commonly build webs inside burner tubes during storage, blocking gas flow and causing uneven flames or dangerous gas buildup inside the grill body. This is the most overlooked and potentially dangerous maintenance item.
• Heat deflectors and flavorizer bars: Remove and scrape off carbon buildup with a putty knife or grill scraper. These components direct heat and vaporize drippings for flavor. Heavy carbon buildup causes uneven heating and can ignite during cooking.
• Grease trap and drip pan: Pull out the grease tray and dispose of old grease properly—never pour it down a drain. Wash the tray with hot soapy water. Line it with aluminum foil for easier cleanup during the season. A full grease trap is a fire hazard; check it every 3-4 uses during grilling season.
• Interior of the firebox: Scrape the inside walls and lid with a plastic putty knife. The flaking material inside the lid is carbon and grease, not paint. Brush out debris and wipe down with a damp cloth. Do not use oven cleaner inside a grill.

• Finding the date: Look at the metal collar or handle guard of the tank. You'll find a date stamped in month-year format (e.g., 03-14 means March 2014). This is the manufacture date. The tank is certified for 12 years from this date. After that, it must be recertified by a licensed facility or exchanged for a new one.
• Recertification vs. exchange: Recertification extends the tank's life by 5 years and costs $15-30. Tank exchanges at hardware stores and gas stations automatically give you a current tank. Exchange is simpler; recertification is cheaper if the tank is in good shape.
• Visual inspection: Check the tank for dents, deep scratches, heavy rust, and bulging. Inspect the valve for damage or corrosion. A tank showing any of these signs should be taken out of service regardless of its certification date. Transport damaged tanks upright in a well-ventilated vehicle to an exchange location.
• Storage reminder: Never store propane tanks indoors, in a garage, or in an enclosed space. Store upright on a flat surface in a shaded outdoor area away from heat sources. Disconnect the tank from the grill when not in use for extended periods.

• Propane: Fill or exchange your tank so it's ready to go. A standard 20-pound tank provides about 18-20 hours of grilling time. If you grill frequently, consider keeping a spare tank on hand so you never run out mid-cookout.
• Charcoal: Buy fresh charcoal—briquettes or lump charcoal that sat in a damp garage all winter may not light well. Store charcoal in a sealed container or heavy-duty trash bag to keep moisture out. Lump charcoal burns hotter and faster; briquettes burn more evenly and predictably.
• Wood chips and chunks: If you smoke meats, stock up on your preferred woods—hickory, mesquite, apple, cherry, or oak. Soak chips in water for 30 minutes before use on gas grills; use dry chunks for charcoal grills and dedicated smokers.
• Essential tools and supplies: Make sure you have a grill brush, long-handled tongs, a spatula, a meat thermometer, heavy-duty aluminum foil, and grill-safe cooking spray. Replace any tools with cracked handles or loose heads—they're a burn risk.