Hang and Finish Drywall
Transform your remodel from construction site to nearly finished home. Quality drywall installation and finishing with Level 4 or Level 5 finish throughout takes 2-3 weeks including drying time, but sets the foundation for beautiful painted walls.
Quick Summary
Typical Cost
$8,000 - $25,000
Whole home, hang and finish
Time Required
2 - 3 weeks
Including drying time
Difficulty Level
DIY to Professional
Finishing requires skill
Why This Matters
Drywall installation marks a dramatic transformation in your remodel. Until now, you have been living with exposed framing, wiring, and insulation - clearly a construction zone. Once drywall goes up and is finished, your home suddenly looks like a home again. Rooms take shape, the space feels enclosed and protected, and you can finally envision the finished result.
Quality of drywall finishing directly impacts how your painted walls will look. Paint does not hide imperfections - it highlights them. Every bump, ridge, or depression in the drywall surface shows through paint, especially in critical lighting conditions. Investing in quality finishing now prevents disappointment when paint goes on later.
The drying time involved in drywall finishing means this phase cannot be rushed. Each coat of joint compound needs to fully dry before the next coat is applied. Rushing leads to bubbles, cracks, and poor adhesion. Plan for this phase to take 2-3 weeks and resist the temptation to push the schedule by covering wet compound.
Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: Verify Readiness and Order Materials
Before starting drywall, ensure all prerequisites are complete and materials are on hand.
- Confirm all rough-in inspections have passed
- Verify insulation is complete and inspected if required
- Calculate drywall needs: measure all walls and ceilings
- Order 10-15% extra for waste and mistakes
- Use 5/8-inch for ceilings, 1/2-inch for most walls
- Order moisture-resistant board for bathrooms
Step 2: Mark Framing Locations
Before covering framing with drywall, mark stud and joist locations for accurate fastening.
- Mark ceiling joist locations on top plates
- Mark stud locations on floor for reference after covering
- Note any blocking locations for future reference
- Photograph electrical box and plumbing locations
- Mark backing locations for towel bars, grab bars, etc.
- Transfer marks to adjacent surfaces for finding after hanging
Step 3: Hang Ceiling Drywall
Always install ceiling drywall before walls so wall sheets can support ceiling edges.
- Use a drywall lift for ceiling installation (rent or buy)
- Run sheets perpendicular to joists when possible
- Stagger end joints at least 4 feet from row to row
- Drive screws every 12 inches on ceilings
- Keep screws 3/8 inch from edges to prevent crumbling
- Cut openings for lights and fans as you go
Step 4: Hang Wall Drywall
Install wall sheets horizontally, starting at the top and working down.
- Hang sheets horizontally - this creates stronger joints
- Start at top, tight against ceiling
- Use drywall T-brace to hold top sheet against ceiling
- Stagger vertical joints between rows
- Leave 1/2-inch gap at bottom (will be covered by baseboard)
- Drive screws every 16 inches on walls, 12 inches at edges
Step 5: Cut Around Openings
Cut drywall to fit around electrical boxes, windows, doors, and other openings.
- Mark box locations by measuring from adjacent sheet edges
- Cut electrical box openings with drywall saw or router
- Do not let joints fall at corners of doors or windows
- Make L-cuts around openings to avoid corner joints
- Leave small gap around boxes (will be covered by cover plates)
- Test fit before fully fastening sheets
Step 6: Install Corner Bead
Protect and define outside corners with corner bead before taping.
- Cut metal or vinyl corner bead to fit each outside corner
- Attach with screws, nails, or staples every 9-12 inches
- Ensure corner bead is straight and not twisted
- Consider paper-faced bead for less cracking
- Install bullnose or decorative bead where specified
- Check all corners are tight and secure
Step 7: Apply First Coat (Tape Coat)
The first coat embeds tape in joint compound to bridge and reinforce all joints.
- Apply thin layer of compound to all flat joints
- Embed paper tape into wet compound, smoothing out
- Remove excess compound from over tape
- Apply tape to all inside corners using corner tool
- Cover all screw heads with compound
- Allow to dry completely (24 hours minimum)
Step 8: Apply Second Coat (Fill Coat)
The second coat fills and smooths the taped joints, beginning the feathering process.
- Knock down any ridges from first coat with knife
- Apply compound wider than tape coat (8-10 inch knife)
- Feather edges thin, building up center
- Fill in corner beads, feathering out both sides
- Cover screw heads again
- Allow to dry completely (24 hours minimum)
Step 9: Apply Third Coat (Finish Coat)
The third coat creates the final smooth surface, feathered wide for invisible joints.
- Lightly sand or scrape any imperfections from second coat
- Apply thin finish coat with 12-inch or wider knife
- Feather edges very thin, 12-14 inches wide minimum
- Use topping compound for smoother finish
- Touch up any screw heads showing through
- Allow to dry completely before sanding
Step 10: Sand and Final Inspection
Sanding creates the final smooth surface and reveals any areas needing touch-up.
- Use pole sander with 120-150 grit sandpaper for flats
- Hand sand corners and detail areas
- Sand just enough to smooth - do not expose tape
- Use work light at angle to reveal imperfections
- Touch up any pits, ridges, or visible joints
- Clean all dust before priming
Drywall Finish Levels Explained
Level 3 - Basic Finish
Two coats of compound over joints and angles. Suitable for areas receiving texture or heavy wallcovering. Not recommended for paint.
Cost: $1.00-1.50 per square foot
Level 4 - Standard Finish (Recommended)
Three coats of compound, sanded smooth. Standard for most residential paint applications with flat or eggshell paint. The most common choice for whole home remodels.
Cost: $1.50-2.25 per square foot
Level 5 - Premium Finish
Level 4 plus skim coat over entire surface. Creates uniform texture between joints and paper face. Essential for critical lighting, dark colors, or glossy paint. Recommended for living areas in high-end remodels.
Cost: $2.00-3.00 per square foot
Cost Breakdown
Pro Tips
Rent a Drywall Lift
A drywall lift is essential for ceiling work and makes wall installation easier too. Renting costs $30-50 per day and saves your back, prevents damage, and allows one person to hang ceilings. This is the best $100 you will spend on your remodel.
Never Rush Drying Time
Each coat needs to be completely dry before the next. Dry compound is uniformly white or gray. Any darker spots indicate moisture. Applying compound over wet compound causes bubbles, cracking, and poor adhesion. Wait 24 hours minimum between coats - longer in humid conditions.
Use Work Lights
Position a bright work light at a low angle to the wall (raking light) to reveal imperfections. Do this before painting, not after. What you cannot see in flat light shows up dramatically with angled light, especially after paint is applied. Check your work before the finisher leaves.
Wider is Better for Feathering
The key to invisible joints is wide, gradual feathering. A joint that is 2 inches thick but only 6 inches wide looks like a ridge. The same thickness spread over 14-16 inches is invisible. Do not try to minimize compound - spread it wide and thin.
Control the Dust
Drywall sanding creates incredibly fine dust that infiltrates everything. Seal off the work area with plastic. Use a pole sander with vacuum attachment. Wet-sanding or damp sponging eliminates dust entirely but requires more skill. Clean thoroughly before painting.
Consider Level 5 for Key Areas
Level 5 finish is worth the extra cost in rooms with large windows, under skylights, or where you plan to use dark or glossy paint. These conditions highlight surface imperfections that Level 4 cannot fully hide. Budget Level 5 at least for living rooms and master bedrooms.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Butt Joints in the Wrong Places
Factory tapered edges create a recess for tape and mud. Butt joints (cut edges meeting cut edges) have no recess and are harder to hide. Minimize butt joints and never put them in highly visible areas or where critical light hits the wall. When unavoidable, back-cut edges slightly.
Joints at Window and Door Corners
Never let a drywall joint fall at the corner of a window or door opening. These joints will crack due to building movement. Instead, make L-shaped cuts so joints fall away from corners by at least 6 inches. This simple detail prevents recurring crack problems.
Over-Driving Screws
Screws should dimple the paper slightly but not break through. Over-driven screws tear the paper and lose holding power. Under-driven screws protrude and show through finish. Use a screw gun with depth adjustment set correctly. Check every screw before taping.
Applying Too Much Compound
More compound is not better - it just requires more sanding. The goal is thin, smooth coats that build up gradually. Heavy globs take forever to dry, shrink excessively, and crack. Let the tape do the reinforcing work while compound just fills and smooths.
Sanding Too Aggressively
The goal of sanding is to smooth, not to remove compound. Sand just enough to eliminate ridges and create a uniform surface. Sanding through to tape ruins the joint and requires re-coating. Use light pressure and check frequently.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between Level 4 and Level 5 drywall finish?
Level 4 finish includes taped joints with three coats of compound, sanded smooth and ready for most paints and textures. Level 5 adds a thin skim coat of compound over the entire surface, creating a uniform texture between joint areas and paper-faced drywall. Level 5 is recommended for areas with critical lighting (like under skylights), dark or glossy paint colors, or anywhere surface imperfections would be noticeable. Level 5 costs 20-30% more but provides noticeably smoother walls.
How long does drywall take to complete?
For a typical whole home remodel (2,000 SF), plan 2-3 weeks for complete drywall installation and finishing. Hanging takes 2-4 days. Each coat of mud needs 24 hours minimum to dry (longer in humid conditions), with three coats standard. Sanding and touch-up add another day or two. Do not rush drying time - applying subsequent coats over wet compound leads to cracking and poor adhesion.
Should I use paper or fiberglass mesh tape?
Paper tape remains the professional standard for most applications. It creates stronger joints that resist cracking better than mesh tape. However, paper tape requires skill to embed properly without bubbles. Fiberglass mesh tape is easier for beginners and works well with setting-type compounds. Many professionals use mesh tape with hot mud for the first coat (for crack resistance) then switch to paper tape technique. For corners, paper tape is superior.
What thickness drywall should I use?
Standard residential walls use 1/2-inch drywall. Use 5/8-inch for ceilings to prevent sag (especially with 24-inch joist spacing) and where fire rating is required. Moisture-resistant (green board) or mold-resistant drywall is recommended for bathrooms, though cement board is better for shower/tub surrounds. Some areas require 5/8-inch Type X (fire-rated) drywall for garage walls, furnace rooms, or between floors.
Can I install drywall myself?
Hanging drywall is manageable for skilled DIYers, though heavy and physical. Ceiling installation really benefits from a drywall lift. Finishing (taping and mudding) is an art that takes years to master. Poor finishing shows through paint and cannot be hidden. Many homeowners hang drywall themselves but hire professionals for finishing. If DIYing the entire job, expect to spend significant time learning technique and accept that results may not match professional work.