Install Structural Beams and Posts
Add engineered beams and support posts to redistribute loads after wall removal. This critical structural work requires precise engineering, proper temporary support, and thorough inspection.
Quick Summary
Typical Cost
$3,000 - $25,000
Per beam installed
Time Required
3 - 7 days
Per major beam installation
Difficulty Level
Professional Required
Licensed contractor essential
Why This Matters
When you remove a load-bearing wall during your whole home renovation, you are fundamentally changing how your house transfers weight from the roof down to the foundation. The loads that were carried by studs every 16 inches must now be carried by a single beam and concentrated at support posts. Getting this wrong can result in sagging floors, cracked drywall, stuck doors, or in the worst case, structural failure.
Proper beam installation is not just about having a big enough piece of wood or steel. It is about understanding load paths, ensuring adequate bearing at connection points, using approved hardware, and maintaining temporary support until the permanent structure is complete. This is why structural engineering and professional installation are non-negotiable requirements.
The beams installed during your remodel will carry loads for the life of your home, potentially 100 years or more. Investing in proper engineering, quality materials, and skilled installation pays dividends in structural integrity, insurance compliance, and resale value for decades to come.
Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: Review Structural Engineering Plans
Before any physical work begins, obtain your stamped structural engineering drawings and study them thoroughly. These plans are the blueprint for your entire beam installation.
- Verify beam specifications including size, material type, and span length
- Note all bearing point locations and required post sizes
- Review connection hardware specifications and Simpson Strong-Tie model numbers
- Check for special requirements like fire-rated assemblies or specific fastener patterns
- Confirm that your permit matches the engineering drawings
- Identify any field adjustments that need engineering approval
Step 2: Assess Existing Structure
Before installing temporary support, carefully examine the existing structure to understand current load paths and identify any hidden conditions.
- Trace the load path from roof to foundation, noting all bearing walls and posts
- Check floor and ceiling joists for direction and spacing
- Identify existing headers above windows and doors that might affect your installation
- Look for mechanical runs (HVAC, plumbing, electrical) that could conflict with beam placement
- Verify that foundation bearing points can support concentrated loads
- Check basement or crawlspace for existing posts or piers
Step 3: Install Temporary Shoring
Temporary support is critical for safety during beam installation. Shoring must be in place before removing any portion of the existing structure.
- Build temporary support walls 2-3 feet from each side of the wall being removed
- Use adjustable steel posts (lally columns) rated for the expected loads
- Place posts on solid bearing, typically 2x12 plates on subfloor over joists
- Top plates should run perpendicular to ceiling joists to distribute load
- Tighten adjustable posts snug but do not over-jack (this can cause damage)
- Install blocking between posts if shoring wall spans more than 8 feet
Step 4: Prepare Bearing Points
Each end of the beam must bear on adequate support. This often requires building new posts, headers, or foundation work.
- Install king studs and jack studs at wall bearing points per engineering
- For steel posts, ensure concrete footings meet size and depth requirements
- Wood posts require proper bearing on floor framing or concrete
- Install post bases with adequate concrete anchors or through bolts
- Check that bearing surface is level and sized for expected loads
- Verify bearing width meets code minimum (typically 3 inches for wood)
Step 5: Position and Install the Beam
Getting the beam into position requires careful planning, adequate manpower, and often mechanical lifting equipment.
- LVL beams can often be carried in sections and assembled on-site
- Steel beams require equipment such as chain hoists, engine cranes, or telehandlers
- Clear access paths and protect finishes from beam transport
- Lift beam into place and secure temporarily with clamps or screws
- Check level and crown orientation (crown should face up on wood beams)
- Verify beam is centered on bearing points with proper overlap
Step 6: Complete Beam Connections
Proper connection hardware ensures load transfer and prevents beam displacement during earthquakes or high winds.
- Install beam-to-post connectors per engineering specifications
- Use Simpson Strong-Tie or approved equivalent connectors
- All structural screws and bolts must be correct size and grade
- Steel connections may require welding by certified welder
- Do not substitute hardware without engineering approval
- Take photos of all connections before covering for inspection
Step 7: Install Joist Connections
Floor or ceiling joists that bear on or connect to the beam need proper hangers and hardware.
- Install joist hangers sized for the joist depth and load
- All nails must be structural hanger nails, not common nails
- Fill every hole in the joist hanger, no exceptions
- For flush beams, hangers must be face-mount style with adequate nail capacity
- Check that joists are fully seated in hangers with no gaps
- Add blocking between joists over beam if required by engineering
Step 8: Schedule Structural Inspection
The building inspector must verify all structural work before shoring can be removed or framing can be covered.
- Request framing and structural inspection from your building department
- Have engineering drawings on-site and accessible for inspector
- Ensure all connections are visible and not covered by insulation
- Point out any field changes that have engineering approval
- Keep temporary shoring in place until inspection is passed
- Get written approval before removing shoring or covering work
Step 9: Remove Temporary Shoring
Only after passing inspection should you carefully remove temporary support to transfer loads to the permanent beam.
- Remove shoring gradually, loosening adjustable posts slowly
- Watch for any movement, cracking, or unusual sounds during load transfer
- Check beam level before and after shoring removal
- Minor settlement (1/8 inch or less) is normal as loads transfer
- If excessive deflection occurs, re-shore and consult engineer
- Remove all temporary materials and patch any damage to finishes
Understanding Beam Types
LVL (Laminated Veneer Lumber)
The most common choice for residential beam applications. Made from thin wood veneers glued together under pressure.
- Cost: $15-30 per linear foot
- Spans: Up to 20 feet typical
- Pros: Easy to cut, nail, and work with
- Cons: Must be protected from moisture
- Best for: Most interior applications
PSL (Parallel Strand Lumber)
Made from long strands of wood pressed together. Stronger than LVL for the same size, with a distinctive appearance.
- Cost: $20-40 per linear foot
- Spans: Up to 25 feet typical
- Pros: Higher load capacity, can be exposed
- Cons: Higher cost, harder to cut
- Best for: Heavy loads, exposed beam design
Steel I-Beams (W-Shapes)
Wide-flange steel beams provide maximum strength in minimal depth. Essential for long spans or heavy loads.
- Cost: $100-400 per linear foot installed
- Spans: Up to 40+ feet
- Pros: Fireproof, maximum strength, long spans
- Cons: Heavy, requires specialized equipment
- Best for: Long spans, commercial feel, heavy loads
Flitch Beams (Steel/Wood Composite)
Steel plates sandwiched between wood members. Combines strength of steel with ease of wood connections.
- Cost: $40-80 per linear foot
- Spans: Up to 20 feet typical
- Pros: Flush installation, standard connections
- Cons: Custom fabrication required
- Best for: Flush beams with limited depth
Cost Breakdown
Pro Tips
Order Beams Early
Steel beams can take 2-4 weeks to fabricate and deliver. Engineered lumber like LVL may also require special ordering for longer lengths. Order materials as soon as engineering is complete to avoid project delays.
Plan Access Routes
A 24-foot LVL beam cannot be bent around corners. Measure doorways, hallways, and stairwells to plan how the beam will get to its installation location. Sometimes beams must be brought in through windows or before walls are framed.
Check for Plumb
Temporary posts and permanent posts must be plumb (vertically straight). Posts that lean transfer loads at angles, causing horizontal forces that can push walls out of position. Use a 4-foot level on all four sides of each post.
Avoid Undersized Bearing
A beam sitting on 1.5 inches of bearing instead of the required 3.5 inches has less than half the capacity. This is a common cause of inspection failures. Verify minimum bearing requirements from your engineering before cutting any openings.
Document Everything
Take photos of all structural connections, hardware, and bearing conditions before they are covered by drywall. These photos are valuable for future reference, insurance claims, and can help resolve any questions that arise during final inspection.
Consider Future Access
If steel beams require periodic inspection for corrosion, or if post bases may need adjustment, plan for access panels in finished spaces. This is especially important for steel in humid environments or posts in finished basements.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Removing Shoring Too Early
Never remove temporary support until the beam is fully secured, all connections are complete, and the structural inspection has passed. Premature shoring removal is the leading cause of beam-related construction accidents and can result in catastrophic structural failure.
Substituting Hardware
Using different connectors, smaller bolts, or fewer fasteners than specified is never acceptable. Engineering calculations are based on specific hardware capacities. Even using the right connector with wrong nails (common nails instead of structural hanger nails) can reduce capacity by 50% or more.
Ignoring Load Path to Foundation
A properly sized beam is useless if the loads cannot reach the foundation. Every post must bear on adequate structure all the way down. Posts on cantilevered floor sections, over openings, or on undersized footings will eventually cause problems.
Skipping the Engineer
Online beam calculators and rules of thumb are not substitutes for professional structural engineering. Every situation is unique, and factors like snow loads, seismic requirements, deflection limits, and existing conditions require expert analysis. The $800-2,500 engineering fee is minor compared to fixing improperly sized beams.
Notching or Drilling Beams
Cutting holes in beams for ductwork, plumbing, or electrical without engineering approval drastically reduces capacity. Engineered wood beams especially cannot be modified in the field. Plan mechanical routes around beams or get engineering approval for any penetrations.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between LVL and steel beams?
LVL (Laminated Veneer Lumber) beams are engineered wood products that are lighter, easier to work with, and can be cut on-site. Steel I-beams carry heavier loads in smaller profiles and are fireproof, but require specialized equipment and welding. LVL typically costs $15-30 per linear foot while steel ranges from $100-400 per linear foot installed.
Do I always need an engineer for structural beam installation?
Yes, in virtually all cases you need a licensed structural engineer to specify beam sizes and connection details when removing load-bearing walls or adding new structural support. Building departments require stamped engineering drawings for permits. Even seemingly simple beam installations involve complex load calculations that only qualified engineers should perform.
How long should temporary shoring stay in place?
Temporary shoring must remain until the permanent beam is fully installed, all connections are complete, and the structural inspection has been passed. This typically takes 3-7 days. Never remove shoring prematurely as this can cause catastrophic structural failure, especially if the beam has not been properly secured or inspected.
What size beam do I need to span 16 feet?
Beam size depends on the load being carried, not just the span. A 16-foot span might require anything from a double 2x12 LVL for a simple floor load to a W10x26 steel beam for heavy roof loads. Only a structural engineer can properly size the beam based on tributary area, live and dead loads, deflection limits, and local building codes.
Can I install a flush beam instead of a dropped beam?
Flush beams (hidden within the ceiling joist depth) are possible but require deeper joists or engineered options like steel flitch plates sandwiched between lumber. They also need proper joist hangers for each joist connection. Flush beams typically cost 30-50% more than dropped beams due to additional engineering, hardware, and installation complexity.