Install Exterior Siding and Trim
Complete your building envelope with properly installed siding and trim. Quality siding installation protects your home from weather, enhances curb appeal, and contributes to energy efficiency for decades to come.
Quick Summary
Typical Cost
$10,000 - $50,000
Whole home, varies by material
Time Required
1 - 3 weeks
Depends on home size/complexity
Difficulty Level
Intermediate to Professional
Some DIY possible
Why This Matters
Exterior siding is your home's primary defense against the elements. It protects wall framing from rain, snow, and humidity that cause rot and mold. It shields insulation from moisture that degrades performance. It blocks wind that would otherwise infiltrate your home, reducing comfort and increasing energy costs.
Beyond protection, siding defines your home's appearance and character. Whether you choose the traditional look of cedar shingles, the clean lines of fiber cement lap siding, or the modern appeal of metal panels, your siding choice makes a statement. During a whole home remodel, this is your opportunity to transform your home's exterior to match your vision.
The key to long-lasting siding is not just the material but the installation details. Proper weather barriers, correct flashing sequences, adequate drainage provisions, and appropriate fastening all determine whether your siding lasts 20 years or 50 years. Taking time to install siding correctly protects your investment for decades.
Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: Choose Your Siding Material
Select siding based on your budget, desired appearance, maintenance tolerance, and local climate conditions.
- Research material options: vinyl, fiber cement, wood, engineered wood, metal, stucco
- Consider maintenance requirements and lifespan for each option
- Review color retention and fade resistance, especially for dark colors
- Check local building codes for fire ratings or material requirements
- Verify HOA requirements if applicable
- Order samples and view in different lighting conditions
Step 2: Remove Existing Siding (If Applicable)
For remodels, removing old siding allows inspection of underlying structure and proper installation of modern weather barriers.
- Test for lead paint and asbestos if home was built before 1978
- Remove siding systematically, protecting windows and landscaping
- Inspect sheathing for rot, damage, or inadequate fastening
- Check framing at window and door openings for water damage
- Replace any damaged sheathing or framing before proceeding
- Dispose of old siding properly, recycling where possible
Step 3: Install Weather-Resistant Barrier
The weather-resistant barrier (WRB) is your second line of defense against water infiltration after the siding itself.
- Choose appropriate WRB: housewrap, building paper, or liquid-applied
- Start at bottom of wall and work up, overlapping courses
- Overlap horizontal seams minimum 6 inches, vertical seams minimum 12 inches
- Tape all seams with compatible tape
- Integrate WRB properly with window and door flashing
- Seal all penetrations for pipes, wires, and vents
Step 4: Install Rainscreen or Furring (Recommended)
A rainscreen creates a drainage and ventilation gap that significantly improves wall durability, especially in wet climates.
- Install 3/8-inch to 3/4-inch furring strips or manufactured rainscreen product
- Space furring to match siding nailing requirements
- Leave gap at bottom and top for ventilation
- Install insect screen at bottom vent opening
- Route furring around windows and doors to maintain gap
- Consider continuous insulation in place of or with furring
Step 5: Install Window and Door Trim
Exterior trim around openings creates the framework for siding termination and establishes the home's architectural character.
- Verify all flashing is complete before installing trim
- Install head trim (drip cap) first with proper slope away from wall
- Install jamb trim, leaving 1/8-inch gap at bottom for drainage
- Install sill trim with slope away from window
- Prime and paint all sides of wood trim before installation
- Caulk only vertical trim joints, not horizontal ones
Step 6: Install Corner Trim and Starter
Corner trim and starter strips create clean terminations and establish the level line for siding installation.
- Install inside and outside corner trim plumb and straight
- Use corner posts or individual corner boards depending on style
- Snap level chalk line for starter strip installation
- Install starter strip at bottom of wall per manufacturer specs
- For lap siding, starter strip establishes first course angle
- Verify starter is level before proceeding
Step 7: Install J-Channel at Windows and Doors
J-channel receives siding edges at window and door openings, creating clean transitions and weather-tight connections.
- Install J-channel tight against window and door frames
- Miter corners for clean appearance on vinyl and aluminum
- Notch and overlap head J-channel over jamb channels
- Leave gap at bottom corners for drainage
- For fiber cement, caulk may replace J-channel
- Flash behind J-channel at head to prevent water entry
Step 8: Install Siding Courses
Install siding from bottom to top, maintaining proper overlap and allowing for thermal expansion.
- Lock first course into starter strip, checking level
- Maintain consistent exposure (revealed portion) on each course
- Stagger joints minimum 24 inches between courses
- Leave expansion gap at trim per manufacturer (typically 1/4-inch for vinyl)
- Nail in center of slots, leaving room for expansion
- Check level every few courses and adjust as needed
Step 9: Cut and Fit Around Openings
Careful cutting and fitting around windows, doors, and utilities ensures professional appearance and weather resistance.
- Measure and mark cut lines carefully before cutting
- Use appropriate tools: snips for vinyl, saw for fiber cement
- Leave proper gap at J-channel for expansion
- Install utility mounting blocks for outlets, hose bibs, lights
- Flash above all horizontal trim and penetrations
- Seal cut edges on fiber cement and engineered wood
Step 10: Install Soffit and Fascia
Soffit and fascia complete the roofline transition and provide essential attic ventilation.
- Install fascia boards at rafter tails, ensuring straight line
- Prime and paint all sides of wood fascia before installation
- Install vented soffit panels for attic ventilation
- Ensure soffit vents are not blocked by insulation
- Install F-channel or J-channel to receive soffit at wall
- Match soffit material to siding for coordinated appearance
Step 11: Complete Caulking and Finish Details
Proper caulking and finish details ensure weather resistance and professional appearance.
- Caulk all vertical joints between trim pieces
- Do not caulk horizontal joints (allow for drainage)
- Seal around utility penetrations with appropriate sealant
- Apply finish caulk at window and door frames
- Touch up any damaged areas on prefinished siding
- Clean overspray and debris from windows
Step 12: Final Inspection and Cleanup
A thorough inspection ensures quality work and identifies any issues before the project is complete.
- Walk entire perimeter inspecting siding installation
- Check all flashing, trim, and caulk details
- Verify proper ventilation at soffits and ridge
- Look for any nails not fully set or visible fasteners
- Clean up all debris, nails, and cutoffs from property
- Schedule any required building department inspections
Siding Materials Comparison
Vinyl Siding
The most popular siding choice, offering low cost and zero maintenance at the expense of appearance.
- Cost: $3-8 per square foot installed
- Lifespan: 20-40 years
- Pros: Low cost, no painting, many colors
- Cons: Can look cheap, fades, cracks in cold
Fiber Cement Siding
Premium option that mimics wood while offering superior durability and fire resistance.
- Cost: $8-15 per square foot installed
- Lifespan: 50+ years
- Pros: Durable, fire-resistant, looks like wood
- Cons: Heavy, requires painting, dust when cut
Engineered Wood Siding
Modern wood-based product offering natural wood appearance with improved durability.
- Cost: $6-12 per square foot installed
- Lifespan: 30-50 years
- Pros: Natural look, lighter than fiber cement, paintable
- Cons: Requires painting, can absorb moisture
Natural Wood Siding
Traditional choice offering unmatched beauty and character with higher maintenance needs.
- Cost: $8-20 per square foot installed
- Lifespan: 30-100+ years with maintenance
- Pros: Beautiful, natural, repairable
- Cons: High maintenance, can rot, fire risk
Cost Breakdown
Pro Tips
Invest in Rainscreen
A rainscreen gap adds $1-2 per square foot but dramatically improves wall durability. The drainage plane allows bulk water and condensation to escape, preventing rot and mold. Required by code in some regions, recommended everywhere. Pays for itself in prevented repairs.
Prime All Six Sides
For wood and fiber cement siding, prime or paint all sides of every piece before installation. Back-priming prevents moisture absorption from the wall cavity side. This simple step can double the life of your paint job and prevent warping and peeling.
Use Stainless or Hot-Dipped Nails
Standard galvanized nails eventually rust, leaving stains and losing holding power. Stainless steel nails cost slightly more but never rust. Hot-dipped galvanized is the minimum acceptable option. Never use electro-galvanized fasteners outdoors.
Plan Material Delivery
Siding is bulky and heavy. Plan where materials will be stored during installation. Keep fiber cement flat and dry on elevated supports. Vinyl should be stored away from heat sources. Proper material handling prevents damage and ensures straight installation.
Match Expansion Joints to Climate
Vinyl siding expands and contracts significantly with temperature. Install with appropriate expansion gaps: larger gaps in cold weather (siding will expand), smaller gaps in warm weather (siding will contract). Failing to account for thermal movement causes buckling and gaps.
Consider Future Access
Plan for future maintenance access. Install utility mounting blocks for hose bibs, lights, and outlets. Use removable panels or access doors where future work may be needed. Taking time now saves money and frustration on future projects.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Nailing Too Tight
Vinyl and some other siding materials need room to expand and contract. Driving nails tight pins the siding in place, causing buckling and wavy walls in hot weather. Nails should be snug but allow the siding to move back and forth on the nail shank.
Poor Flashing Details
Water follows the path of least resistance, often finding its way behind siding through improperly flashed windows, doors, and penetrations. Every horizontal surface must have kick-out flashing. Head flashings must extend past jambs. Details matter for long-term performance.
Blocking Drainage
Caulking horizontal joints, filling weep holes, or sealing the bottom of J-channel traps water behind siding. Water that cannot drain out causes rot and mold. Only caulk vertical joints. Leave the bottom of all channels and trim pieces open for drainage.
Installing Over Damaged Sheathing
New siding over rotted or water-damaged sheathing is just covering up problems. Moisture continues to cause damage underneath. Always inspect and repair sheathing before installing new weather barrier and siding. The few hundred dollars for repairs prevents thousands in future damage.
Ignoring Ventilation
Blocking soffit vents with insulation or installing solid soffit panels without adequate venting leads to moisture buildup in the attic. This causes shingle damage, ice dams, and can lead to mold growth. Ensure soffit vents provide continuous airflow to the attic.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best siding material for durability?
Fiber cement siding offers excellent durability with 50+ year lifespan, resistance to rot, fire, and insects, while providing the look of real wood. Vinyl siding is maintenance-free and lasts 30-40 years. Engineered wood (like LP SmartSide) provides wood aesthetics with improved durability. Natural wood requires regular maintenance but can last indefinitely with proper care.
Do I need a rainscreen behind my siding?
Rainscreens are highly recommended, especially in wet climates or with certain siding types. They create a drainage and ventilation gap that allows moisture to escape, significantly reducing rot risk. Rainscreens are required by code in some areas and are particularly important with stucco, fiber cement, and wood siding. The small added cost prevents major moisture problems.
Can I install new siding over existing siding?
Installing over existing siding is possible in some cases but not recommended for whole home remodels. Removing old siding allows inspection of sheathing and framing, proper installation of modern weather barriers, correction of any moisture damage, and creates a flat surface for optimal new siding performance. The additional tear-off cost is worthwhile.
How do I prevent siding from fading?
Choose siding with UV-resistant finishes and through-color technology. Lighter colors fade less noticeably than dark colors. Factory-applied finishes on fiber cement and engineered wood typically outlast field-applied paint. Vinyl siding with high titanium dioxide content resists fading better. Position darker colors on north-facing walls for reduced sun exposure.
What is the proper way to flash windows before siding?
Window flashing must direct water away from the wall cavity. Install sill pan first, then window with jamb and head flashing tape overlapping in shingle fashion. Housewrap integrates over head flashing and under jamb flashing. J-channel or trim around windows must allow drainage at the bottom. Never caulk the top of windows or horizontal trim joints.