How to Sand Cabinets for Paint
Here's the good news: you're not sanding down to bare wood. You're just scuffing the surface so primer can grip. It's faster and easier than most people expect.
Quick Summary
Time required
2-4 hours
Recommended grit
120-150
Supplies cost
$15-40
The Biggest Sanding Mistake
You don't need to sand down to bare wood. This is the most common misconception about cabinet painting. With modern bonding primers, you only need to scuff the surface—not strip it.
The goal is to create "tooth"—a slightly rough texture that gives primer something to grab onto. The existing finish can stay in place. This transforms a weekend-long job into a few hours of work.
Wrong approach:
Spending 8+ hours sanding cabinets down to bare wood, creating massive amounts of dust, and exhausting yourself before painting even starts.
Right approach:
Light scuffing with 120-grit until the surface looks uniformly dull. Takes 2-3 hours for a typical kitchen. Let primer do the adhesion work.
What You'll Need
Tools
- Random orbital sander (speeds up flat areas)
- Sanding block (for edges and hand work)
- N95 dust mask (essential)
- Safety glasses
- Shop vacuum with brush attachment
Supplies
- 120-grit sandpaper (for initial scuffing)
- 150-grit sandpaper (for second pass)
- 220-grit (for between coats)
- Sanding sponges (for detailed profiles)
- Tack cloths (for dust removal)
Sandpaper Grit Guide
| Grit | Use For | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 80-grit | Heavy stripping only | Too aggressive for scuffing |
| 120-grit | Initial scuffing | Ideal for creating tooth |
| 150-grit | Second pass or lighter scuff | Good for final prep |
| 220-grit | Between coats | Knocks down dust nibs |
| 320-grit | Final smoothing | Optional for ultra-smooth finish |
Step-by-Step Sanding Guide
Set Up Your Workspace
Sanding creates dust. A lot of it. Prepare your space to make cleanup easier and protect your lungs.
- •Work outdoors or in a garage if possible
- •Lay drop cloths under your work area
- •Set up sawhorses or a table for door sanding
- •Have your shop vacuum ready for periodic cleanup
Sand Flat Surfaces First
Start with the flat center panels of each door. This is where an orbital sander really saves time.
Technique: Keep the sander moving at all times. Don't press hard—let the weight of the sander do the work. Overlap passes slightly. Sand with the grain direction.
Goal: Entire surface looks uniformly dull with no shiny spots. Takes 30-60 seconds per door with an orbital sander.
Hand-Sand Detailed Areas
Routed edges, raised panels, and decorative profiles need hand sanding. Sanding sponges are your best friend here.
Sand Cabinet Frames
The face frames (the part around cabinet openings) need sanding too. Work your way around the kitchen systematically.
Tip: Vacuum the cabinet interiors while you're here. All that dust will settle inside otherwise.
Check for Gloss
Before cleaning up, inspect each surface carefully. Shine a light across the surface at an angle—any shiny spots need more sanding.
What to look for:
- ✓ Uniformly dull/matte appearance
- ✓ Slight texture you can feel
- ✓ No shiny or glossy spots
- ✓ All edges and corners scuffed
Remove All Dust
Dust is the enemy of a smooth paint finish. Remove it completely before priming.
Common Sanding Mistakes
Over-sanding
Spending hours trying to reach bare wood. You don't need to—bonding primer will stick to scuffed existing finish.
Sanding through edges
Being too aggressive on corners and edges, sanding through to bare wood. Be gentle on edges—they don't need much.
Skipping the details
Sanding flat areas but skipping grooves and profiles. Paint will peel from any unsanded glossy spots.
Poor dust removal
Dust trapped under primer creates a bumpy finish. Vacuum AND tack cloth before priming.
What About Liquid Deglosser?
Liquid deglossers (like Krud Kutter) chemically etch the surface instead of physically sanding. They can work, but with caveats:
Pros:
- • No sanding dust
- • Faster on some surfaces
- • Gets into details easily
Cons:
- • Less durable adhesion
- • Strong chemical fumes
- • Inconsistent results on heavy gloss
Recommendation: For high-use kitchen cabinets, sanding provides more reliable adhesion. If you hate sanding, use deglosser AND do a light scuff—don't skip physical prep entirely.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to sand down to bare wood?
No! With bonding primer, you only need to scuff the surface. Light sanding with 120-150 grit creates texture for adhesion. Stripping to bare wood wastes hours and isn't necessary.
What grit sandpaper should I use?
120-grit for initial scuffing, 150-grit for second pass, 220-grit between coats. Avoid anything coarser than 100-grit, which can leave visible scratches.
Can I use liquid deglosser instead?
Deglossers can work but aren't as reliable for high-use surfaces like kitchen cabinets. For best results, use deglosser AND do a light sanding—don't skip physical prep entirely.
Do I need to sand between primer coats?
Yes, a light sanding with 220-grit between coats removes dust nibs and creates a smoother finish. This quick step significantly improves the final result.
Ready for the Next Step?
With surfaces sanded and dust-free, it's time to apply bonding primer—the foundation for a durable paint job.