How to Prime Kitchen Cabinets
Primer is the secret to cabinet paint that lasts for years. The right primer provides adhesion, blocks stains, and creates a perfect base for your topcoat. Don't skip this step.
Quick Summary
Time required
3-4 hours
Coats needed
2 thin coats
Primer cost
$40-80
Why Primer Is Non-Negotiable
"Can I skip the primer?" is the most common question about cabinet painting. The answer is no—and here's why:
Adhesion
Paint alone doesn't grip finished surfaces well. Bonding primer creates a chemical and mechanical bond to the existing finish AND to the topcoat.
Stain Blocking
Oak and other woods release tannins that bleed through regular paint, causing yellow or pink stains. Shellac primer seals them completely.
Uniform Base
Primer creates a consistent surface for paint to adhere to, ensuring even color and sheen across all your cabinets.
Choosing the Right Primer
| Primer | Best For | Dry Time | Odor |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zinsser BIN (Shellac) | Oak, stained wood, best adhesion | 45 min | Strong |
| Zinsser Cover Stain (Oil) | Heavy stain blocking | 2-4 hrs | Strong |
| Zinsser 1-2-3 Plus (Latex) | Low odor, good adhesion | 1 hr | Mild |
| KILZ Adhesion (Latex) | Slick surfaces, low odor | 1 hr | Mild |
Our recommendation: Zinsser BIN shellac primer is the professional's choice for cabinets. Yes, it smells bad (work outside or with fans), but nothing matches its adhesion and stain blocking. Clean up with denatured alcohol.
What You'll Need
Tools
- 4-inch high-density foam roller
- 2-inch angled brush (quality matters)
- Paint tray or roller bucket
- Respirator mask (for shellac primer)
Supplies
- 1-2 gallons primer (for 20-30 doors)
- Denatured alcohol (for BIN cleanup)
- 220-grit sandpaper
- Tack cloths
Step-by-Step Priming Guide
Set Up Proper Ventilation
Shellac primer has serious fumes. Don't underestimate this—work in a garage with the door open, outside, or with multiple fans creating cross-ventilation.
Safety: Wear a respirator mask rated for organic vapors (not just a dust mask). Take breaks outside. If you feel dizzy, stop and ventilate more.
Stir the Primer
Primer separates in the can. Stir thoroughly before and occasionally during use. Shake cans if using spray primer.
Pour into a paint tray. Don't work directly from the can—it introduces contaminants and the primer will start to thicken.
Apply First Coat: Brush Edges First
Start each door by brushing primer into all edges, grooves, and detailed areas. Then roll the flat center section.
Keep Coats Thin
This is crucial. Thick primer drips, takes forever to dry, and doesn't adhere as well. Two thin coats beat one thick coat every time.
The test: If you see drips forming or the primer looks glossy-wet, you're applying too thick. You should see some of the underlying color through the first coat.
Sand Between Coats
After the first coat dries (45-60 minutes for shellac), lightly sand with 220-grit. You're knocking down dust nibs, not removing primer.
What to look for:
- ✓ Smooth to the touch—no gritty dust particles
- ✓ All high spots knocked down
- ✓ Wipe with tack cloth after sanding
Apply Second Coat
Same technique as the first coat. This coat should achieve complete coverage—you shouldn't see any of the original color through it.
After the second coat dries, sand lightly again with 220-grit before painting. This creates the smoothest possible base.
Prime Cabinet Frames
Don't forget the face frames (the part around cabinet openings). These are brushed, not rolled, due to their narrow width.
Tip: Prime frames first before doors. This way they're drying while you work on doors.
Common Priming Mistakes
Applying too thick
Thick coats drip and take forever to dry. Multiple thin coats are always better than one thick coat.
Using the wrong primer
Standard latex primer doesn't bond to finished surfaces. You need a bonding primer specifically designed for slick surfaces.
Skipping the sanding
Dust particles landing in wet primer create bumps. Light sanding between coats removes them for a smooth finish.
Poor ventilation
Shellac fumes are no joke. Work outside or with serious ventilation. A fan pointing out a window helps pull fumes away.
Primer Dry Times
| Primer Type | Dry to Touch | Recoat Time | Ready for Paint |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shellac (BIN) | 15-20 min | 45 min | 2-3 hours |
| Oil-based | 1-2 hours | 2-4 hours | 24 hours |
| Latex bonding | 30 min | 1 hour | 2-3 hours |
Times are approximate for 70°F / 50% humidity. Cold or humid conditions extend dry times significantly.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best primer for kitchen cabinets?
Zinsser BIN Shellac-Based Primer is the gold standard. Superior adhesion, excellent stain blocking, fast drying. The downside is strong fumes—you need good ventilation and a respirator.
How many coats of primer do cabinets need?
Two thin coats is ideal. First coat for adhesion and stain blocking, second for complete coverage. More coats add thickness without improving adhesion.
Can I use latex primer on cabinets?
Yes, but use a bonding primer specifically. Zinsser 1-2-3 Plus or KILZ Adhesion are good choices. They have less odor but may not block tannin bleed as well as shellac.
Do I need to sand between primer coats?
Yes, lightly with 220-grit. You're removing dust nibs, not primer. This creates a smoother surface for the next coat. Wipe with a tack cloth after.
Ready for the Next Step?
With primer applied and dried, you're ready for the exciting part—painting your cabinets their new color.