How to Paint Doors and Frames Without Brush Marks
Doors are the most visible trim in any room. Learn the professional panel order and techniques that produce smooth, factory-like finish without drips, brush marks, or uneven coverage.
Quick Summary
Time needed
1-2 hours per door
Cost
$20-30 in supplies
Difficulty
Moderate
Why Panel Order Matters
The difference between amateur and professional door painting comes down to sequence. Paint a door in random order and you'll get visible seams, drip marks, and brush strokes that show where wet paint met dried paint.
The #1 Mistake: Starting with the large flat surfaces. This locks you into working around dried edges when you get to the detailed areas, creating impossible-to-hide lap marks.
Professional painters work from detail to broad, allowing each section to blend wet-into-wet with the previous area. This creates seamless transitions and that smooth, factory-finish look.
Understanding Door Anatomy
Knowing the parts helps you understand the painting sequence:
Step-by-Step Guide
1. Prepare the Door
Prop the door open with a wedge at a comfortable working angle (usually 45-60 degrees). Remove or tape off hardware if possible— doorknobs, strike plates, and hinges.
Pro Tip: A rubber door wedge is better than a wood shim. It grips the floor and won't slide out mid-paint.
2. Paint Panel Recesses First (Panel Doors Only)
If you have a panel door (raised or recessed panels), start with the grooves and edges around each panel. Use your 2-inch angled brush to get into these detailed areas.
Panel Recess Technique:
- •Load brush moderately (not dripping)
- •Paint the grooves first, then blend outward
- •Work from inside out on each panel
- •Don't overload grooves—they'll drip
3. Paint Panel Faces
While the recess edges are still wet, paint the flat face of each panel. This is where a 4-inch foam mini roller really shines—it gives you a perfectly smooth finish.
Brush Method
Use long, smooth strokes in the direction of the wood grain. Blend into the wet recess edges.
Best for: Ultimate control, raised panels
Roller Method
Use foam mini roller for glass-smooth finish. Lightly brush edges to blend with recesses.
Best for: Smoothest finish, flat panels
4. Paint the Horizontal Rails
Now paint all the horizontal frame pieces: top rail, any middle rails between panels, and bottom rail. Brush or roll in the direction of the wood grain (horizontally).
Watch For: Drips forming on the bottom edges of horizontal rails. Check within 5-10 minutes and brush out any runs before they dry.
5. Finish With the Vertical Stiles
Paint the vertical frame pieces last (left and right sides). Working top to bottom allows you to catch any drips from the horizontal rails while everything is still wet.
Blending Technique:
Where the vertical stiles meet the horizontal rails, use light brush strokes to blend the two sections together. Don't overwork it—just a few light strokes while both areas are wet.
6. Paint the Door Frame (Jamb)
With the door still propped open, paint the door jamb (frame). Start with the hinge side, then the top, then the latch side. Use your angled brush to cut in along the wall.
7. Paint the Door Edges (If Visible)
The top edge of the door and the latch edge (the one you see when the door is open) should match your trim color. The hinge edge typically matches the room color on the other side.
Painting Flat (Slab) Doors
No panels? Lucky you—flat doors are simpler. Here's the sequence:
- 1.Cut in all four edges with brush
- 2.Roll the entire face with 4-inch foam roller
- 3.Immediately back-brush lightly (optional, for ultra-smooth finish)
- 4.Paint the frame as described above
Professional Tips
Remove Hardware If You Can
Painting around doorknobs and hinges is slow and messy. If you can remove them in 60 seconds with a screwdriver, it's worth it. Store screws in a plastic bag taped to the door so you don't lose them.
Thin Your Paint Slightly for Brushing
Add a tablespoon of water per cup of paint (for latex) when brushing doors. This helps it flow and self-level, reducing brush marks. Don't thin if using a roller.
Light Sanding Between Coats
After the first coat dries, lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper. This removes any dust nibs or small imperfections and helps the second coat adhere. Wipe with a damp cloth before painting.
Frequently Asked Questions
What order do you paint door panels?
Paint in this order: 1) Panel recesses/grooves first, 2) Panel faces, 3) Horizontal rails (top, middle, bottom), 4) Vertical stiles (sides). This prevents brush marks and allows you to blend each section into the previous wet paint for a seamless finish.
Should I paint a door with a brush or roller?
Use both for best results. Brush the detailed areas (panel recesses, edges, corners), then use a 4-inch mini foam roller on flat panel faces and larger flat sections. The roller gives you a smooth, brush-mark-free finish, while the brush handles detail work.
How do I avoid brush marks when painting doors?
Use a quality brush, don't overload it with paint, and always brush in the direction of the wood grain. Work in one continuous stroke rather than multiple short strokes. For the smoothest finish, use a mini foam roller on flat surfaces and only use a brush for edges and details.
Should I remove the door to paint it?
It's not necessary for most situations. Propping the door open with a wedge works well and is much faster than removing and re-hanging. Only remove the door if you're painting both sides, if it's hard to reach while installed, or if you want to lay it flat on sawhorses for the smoothest possible finish.
Ready for the Next Step?
Doors done. Now tackle the window frames and sills for complete trim coverage.