Cut In Edges and Corners
This is the skill that separates DIYers from pros. Cutting in means painting a precise border along edges where your roller can't reach. Master this technique and you won't need painter's tape—saving time and getting better results.
Quick Summary
Time needed
60-90 minutes per room
Cost
$15-25 (quality brush)
Difficulty
Moderate (improves with practice)
Why Good Cutting-In Matters
Sloppy edges ruin an otherwise good paint job. Walk into any room and your eyes immediately go to the ceiling line and corners. Wavy lines, paint on the ceiling, or gaps between the edge and rolled area scream "amateur."
The professional look: Clean, straight lines that flow smoothly from edge to rolled area. No lap marks, no uneven borders. It takes practice, but the technique is simple once you understand it.
Most people reach for painter's tape, but pros rarely use it. Tape takes time to apply, paint bleeds under it anyway, and removing it can pull off your new paint. A quality angled brush and proper technique beat tape every time.
What You'll Need
Tools
- •2-2.5 inch angled brush (quality matters—Purdy or Wooster)
- •Small paint container or "cut bucket"
- •Damp rag for wiping mistakes immediately
- •Step stool or small ladder
Materials
- •Your paint (same as you'll roll)
- •Painter's tape (optional, for trim if needed)
Step-by-Step Cutting-In Technique
1. Set Up Your Workspace
Pour paint into a smaller container that's easier to carry around. This is called a "cut bucket" and it makes cutting in much less tiring.
Tip: Fill your cut bucket only about 2 inches deep. This prevents overloading the brush and makes it easier to control how much paint you pick up.
2. Load Your Brush Correctly
This is where most people go wrong. Too much paint causes drips. Too little means constant reloading and uneven coverage.
Perfect brush loading:
- 1.Dip only the bottom 1-2 inches of bristles into paint
- 2.Gently tap the brush against the inside of the container (don't wipe on the rim)
- 3.The brush should feel substantial but not heavy or dripping
- 4.Paint should be in the bristles, not running down to the ferrule (metal part)
3. Master the Angled Brush Technique
The angle of your brush is everything. It gives you visibility and control.
For ceiling lines (painting walls):
- •Hold brush with angled edge pointing toward the ceiling
- •Position yourself so you can see where bristles meet edge
- •Use just the very tips of the bristles for precision
- •Pull the brush along the line, don't push it
Common mistake: Pressing the full width of the brush against the edge. This gives you no control. Use just the tips of the angled bristles—think of it like using a pencil, not a paintbrush.
4. Paint a 2-3 Inch Border
You're creating a border that the roller will overlap. Too narrow and you risk the roller hitting ceiling or trim. Too wide wastes time.
Areas to cut in (in order):
- 1.Ceiling line first - Start at the top of the wall where it meets ceiling
- 2.Inside corners - Where two walls meet
- 3.Around windows and doors - Along all trim
- 4.Baseboards - Along the bottom edge
5. Use Long, Smooth Strokes
Smooth, continuous strokes hide brushmarks better than short choppy ones.
Stroke technique:
- •Start about 6 inches from a corner or edge, paint toward it
- •Then reverse and pull the brush back through wet paint
- •Continue with long strokes (2-3 feet) along the edge
- •Slightly overlap previous strokes while paint is wet
- •Don't dab or stipple—this creates texture and shows brushmarks
6. Work One Wall at a Time
Cut in a wall, then immediately roll it. This is crucial for avoiding visible lines between cut-in and rolled areas.
Workflow: Cut in ceiling line → cut in corners and trim → immediately roll that wall → move to next wall. Don't cut in the whole room then roll—the cut-in will dry and create visible borders.
Pro Tips
Pro tip: Your first stroke should be about 1/4 inch away from the edge. The second stroke pushes paint to the edge. This gives you better control than trying to paint the edge perfectly on the first stroke.
Pro tip: If you do mess up and get paint where it doesn't belong, wipe it immediately with a damp rag. Latex paint wipes off easily when wet but is permanent once dry.
Pro tip: For corners where two walls meet, paint into the corner from both directions. This ensures complete coverage and prevents gaps.
Pro tip: Don't expect perfection on your first room. Cutting in is a skill that improves dramatically with practice. By your third wall, you'll be significantly better than your first.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to use painter's tape if I'm cutting in?
No, proper cutting-in technique with a good angled brush eliminates the need for tape in most situations. Tape can actually create problems—paint bleeds under it, it pulls off existing paint when removed, or it leaves a ridge line. With practice, cutting in freehand is faster and looks better.
What's the best brush for cutting in?
A 2 to 2.5-inch angled sash brush with quality bristles. The angle helps you see the edge you're painting and gives better control. Invest in a good brush ($15-25)—cheap brushes lose bristles and don't hold enough paint. Purdy and Wooster make excellent cutting-in brushes.
Should I cut in the whole room first or one wall at a time?
Cut in one wall, then immediately roll it before moving to the next wall. This maintains a wet edge between your cut-in work and rolling, preventing visible lines. If you cut in the whole room first, the paint dries and you'll see a border where cut-in meets rolled areas.
Ready for the Next Step?
With edges cut in, now you're ready to roll the first coat of paint on your walls.