How to Install the Last Row of Flooring
The final row is the trickiest part of installation. You'll need to rip planks to width, work in a tight space, and use a pull bar to lock everything together. Measure carefully - you only get one shot at this.
Quick Summary
Time needed
2-3 hours
Cost
$0
Difficulty
Hard
Why the Last Row Is Challenging
The last row requires precision rip cuts (cutting planks lengthwise to narrow them). You're working in a cramped space between the floor and wall. You can't use a tapping block because there's no room to swing. And walls are rarely perfectly straight, so each plank may need a slightly different width.
Important: If your last row will be less than 2 inches wide, it's nearly impossible to install properly. This is why you should have calculated and adjusted the first row width at the beginning. If you're stuck with a too-narrow last row, see the FAQ below for options.
Step-by-Step Last Row Installation
Step 1: Measure the Gap Multiple Times
Walls are rarely straight. Measure the gap width at the beginning, middle, and end of the row. Use the narrowest measurement for all cuts.
Measurement Formula:
(Distance from last installed row to wall) - (1/4-inch expansion gap) = Width to cut planks
Example:
- • Left end: 4.75 inches to wall
- • Middle: 4.5 inches to wall
- • Right end: 4.625 inches to wall
- • Narrowest: 4.5 inches - 0.25 = 4.25 inches (cut width)
Step 2: Mark and Cut Planks to Width
You'll rip planks lengthwise. Measure from the tongue edge (the side that will click into the previous row), not from the groove edge.
Cutting Options:
Table Saw: Most accurate. Set fence to width, feed plank slowly. Face down for table saws.
Circular Saw: Use a straight cutting guide. Clamp guide securely. Cut face-up for circular saws.
Track Saw: Professional option. Very straight cuts with minimal setup.
Critical: You must keep the tongue side intact. Cut from the groove/bottom side. If you accidentally cut the wrong edge, that plank is ruined - it won't lock into the previous row.
Step 3: Dry Fit Before Final Installation
Before locking planks in place, lay them loosely in position to verify they fit. This is your last chance to catch measurement errors.
Check These Points:
- • Planks span the full length without gaps
- • Width allows 1/4-inch gap at wall with spacers
- • No plank is wedged too tight or too loose
- • End joints will stagger properly
- • You have enough planks to complete the row
Step 4: Install Using Pull Bar
There's no room to use a tapping block against the wall. A pull bar hooks the plank edge and lets you pull it tight into the previous row.
Pull Bar Technique:
- 1. Place spacers against wall before starting
- 2. Angle plank and insert tongue into previous row's groove
- 3. Lower plank as far as possible
- 4. Hook pull bar over far edge of plank
- 5. Brace pull bar against wall spacers
- 6. Strike pull bar with mallet to pull plank tight
- 7. Listen/feel for click indicating full lock
Step 5: Verify Complete Locking
The last row is hardest to fully lock because of limited access. Verify every plank clicked properly.
Verification: Run your hand along the seam between last row and previous row. You should feel no height difference or gaps. Try to lift planks - they shouldn't budge. If planks aren't fully locked, use the pull bar again with more force.
Step 6: Remove All Spacers
Once the last row is installed, remove spacers from all walls. The expansion gap is maintained - you just don't need spacers anymore.
Walk the perimeter and remove every spacer. Save them for future projects. The gap will be hidden by baseboards and quarter round later. Vacuum out any debris that collected behind spacers.
Professional Tips for Last Row Success
Cut All Planks Before Installing Any
Measure and cut all last-row planks first, then install them. This is faster than cutting one, installing, cutting next, etc. It also lets you verify you have enough material before you start.
Use a Scrap as Spacer for Rip Cuts
When setting your table saw or circular saw guide, use a scrap piece of wood cut to exact width as your setup gauge. This is more accurate than measuring with a tape measure.
Label Planks If Width Varies
If wall bow requires different widths, mark planks with their position (left, middle, right). This prevents mixing them up during installation.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if the last row is too narrow to install?
If the last row would be less than 2 inches wide, you should have made the first row narrower to balance it out. If you're already at the last row and it's too narrow, your only options are: 1) Remove the first row and start over with a narrower first row, or 2) Use construction adhesive to glue down narrow last-row pieces (they won't lock properly). This is why planning and calculating last row width before starting is critical.
How do I rip flooring planks to width?
Use a table saw for straightest cuts, or a circular saw with a straight cutting guide. Measure from the tongue edge to your cut line - this is the side you'll lock into the previous row. Cut slowly with a fine-tooth blade to minimize chipping. Support the plank on both sides of the blade. Always cut face-up for circular saws (face-down for table saws) to protect the decorative surface.
Ready for the Next Step?
With the floor fully installed, it's time to add quarter round molding to cover the expansion gaps and create a finished look.