How to Install First Rows of Flooring
The first 3 rows are make-or-break. Get them perfectly straight and the rest of the installation flows smoothly. Rush them or let them go crooked, and you'll fight alignment issues across the entire floor.
Quick Summary
Time needed
2-3 hours
Cost
$0
Difficulty
Medium-Hard
Why First Rows Make or Break Your Floor
Professional installers spend up to half their time on the first 3 rows. They know that everything else depends on getting this foundation perfect. A crooked first row means every subsequent row fights to align, resulting in gaps, poor locking, and a visibly wonky floor.
Critical Rule: Don't proceed past the third row until the first three are perfectly straight, fully locked, and properly spaced from the wall. Fixing errors later requires tearing everything out and starting over.
Step-by-Step First Row Installation
Step 1: Position Spacers Along Starting Wall
Spacers maintain the crucial 1/4-inch expansion gap. Place them every 12 inches along the wall before laying any planks.
Spacer Placement:
- • Use manufacturer-provided spacers or 1/4-inch plywood strips
- • Place spacers every 12 inches along starting wall
- • Add spacers along both end walls too
- • Keep spacers in place until entire floor is installed
- • Never install floor tight against wall - it will buckle
Step 2: Install First Plank
The first plank sets the entire floor's position. Handle with care and verify it's perfectly aligned to your chalk line.
First Plank Options:
Option 1: Tongue toward wall (most common) - Groove side faces into room for clicking second row
Option 2: Cut tongue off completely - Creates flush edge against spacers, easier to keep straight
Check manufacturer instructions. Position plank against spacers and verify it aligns with your chalk line. The first plank must be perfectly straight.
Step 3: Continue First Row - Click End Joints
Add planks one at a time, clicking end joints together. First row only locks on the ends, not the long side.
Clicking Technique:
- 1. Hold plank at 20-30 degree angle to floor
- 2. Insert tongue into groove of previous plank
- 3. Lower plank flat while maintaining light forward pressure
- 4. You'll hear/feel a click when locked properly
- 5. Use tapping block and mallet if needed to close gaps
Step 4: Start Second Row
Use a cutoff piece from first row to start second row (if it's 12+ inches long). This creates your stagger pattern and minimizes waste.
Stagger Rule: Second row should start at least 6 inches offset from first row's seam. 8-12 inches is even better for a more natural look and stronger installation.
Step 5: Click Long Side and End Joints
From row 2 onward, you'll click both the long side (into previous row) and end joints (to adjacent plank). This requires practice.
Two-Side Click Method:
- 1. Angle plank about 20-30 degrees off floor
- 2. Insert long edge tongue into previous row's groove
- 3. Slide plank sideways to engage end joint with previous plank
- 4. Lower flat - both sides should click
- 5. Tap with mallet if gaps remain (use tapping block to protect edges)
Step 6: Check Straightness Obsessively
After every 3-4 planks, verify rows are still perfectly straight. Use a 6-foot straightedge or pull a string line.
Pro Method: Pull a tight string line along the edge of your third row. Check for gaps or bowing. Any deviation means you need to adjust. It's easier to fix now than after 10 more rows are installed.
Step 7: Complete Third Row Before Moving On
Once all three rows are installed, stand back and verify everything is straight, gaps are tight, and planks are fully locked. This is your last checkpoint.
Final Verification:
- • Walk on the floor - all planks should feel solid and locked
- • Check for gaps between planks (should be tight)
- • Verify 1/4-inch gap from walls (spacers still in place)
- • Confirm seams are staggered by 6+ inches
- • Use straightedge to verify rows are straight
Professional Installation Tips
Use a Tapping Block, Not Direct Mallet Hits
Never hit planks directly with a mallet - you'll damage the tongue and groove. Use a tapping block (a piece of scrap flooring works) to distribute force evenly and protect edges.
Work From Multiple Boxes
Flooring has natural color variation between boxes. Pull planks from 3-4 different boxes and mix them randomly. This prevents obvious color banding and creates a more natural appearance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why are the first rows so important?
The first 3 rows establish the foundation for your entire floor. If they're not perfectly straight, every subsequent row will be crooked. Small alignment errors compound - a 1/8-inch error at the start becomes a 1-inch error by the time you reach the far wall. Professionals spend extra time on first rows because they know it determines the quality of the entire installation.
What happens if I don't use spacers?
Without spacers, your floor will expand against the wall when humidity increases, causing buckling, lifted planks, or damage. Flooring materials expand and contract with temperature and humidity changes - they need a 1/4-inch gap around all perimeter walls to move freely. Spacers ensure this gap is maintained consistently during installation.
Should the tongue face the wall or away from it?
It depends on your flooring system. Some manufacturers recommend tongue toward the wall, others say remove the tongue completely. Check your installation instructions. The goal is to ensure the first row sits flush and stable against the spacers. If tongue faces the wall, you won't be able to click that side - you'll only click the end joints in the first row.
Ready for the Next Step?
With your first three rows perfectly installed, you can now continue the installation across the rest of the room with confidence.