Install Cement Backer Board
Backer board provides a stable, water-resistant substrate for tile installation. Proper installation is critical for a lasting shower.
Quick Summary
Why Backer Board Matters
Tile needs a dimensionally stable substrate that won't swell, warp, or deteriorate from moisture. Drywall and plywood fail these requirements in wet areas. Cement backer board provides the rigid, water-resistant surface that tile requires. Combined with proper waterproofing, it ensures your shower lasts for decades.
Backer Board Options
| Type | Cost | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cement Board Hardiebacker, Durock | $10-15/sheet | Affordable, rigid, proven | Heavy, dusty to cut |
| Foam Board Kerdi-Board, GoBoard | $30-50/sheet | Lightweight, waterproof | Expensive, less rigid |
| Fiber Cement PermaBase, Fiberock | $12-18/sheet | Lighter than cement | Still needs waterproofing |
Important: No backer board is fully waterproof on its own. All require a waterproofing membrane (like RedGard or Kerdi) over the surface before tiling.
Tools & Materials
Tools
- • Cement board scoring tool
- • Utility knife with extra blades
- • Jigsaw or angle grinder (for cutouts)
- • Drill/driver
- • T-square or drywall square
- • Tape measure
- • Safety glasses & N95 mask
- • Margin trowel
Materials
- • Cement backer board (1/2" for walls)
- • Cement board screws (1-5/8")
- • Alkali-resistant mesh tape
- • Thinset mortar
- • Waterproof membrane (RedGard, Kerdi)
- • Vapor barrier (for exterior walls)
Step-by-Step Installation
Prepare the Area
- Verify all rough plumbing and electrical are complete
- Ensure studs are plumb and flat (max 1/8" deviation)
- Install vapor barrier on exterior walls (code requirement in many areas)
- Ensure blocking is installed for fixtures and grab bars
Measure and Cut Panels
Score and snap method:
- Mark cut line with straightedge
- Score deeply with cement board knife (multiple passes)
- Snap board along scored line
- Score backing paper and snap clean
For cutouts:
- Use carbide hole saw for pipe holes (1/4" larger than pipe)
- Use jigsaw with cement board blade for irregular shapes
- Wear N95 mask—silica dust is hazardous
Install Panels
- Start at bottom, working up
- Leave 1/4" gap from tub/shower pan (prevents wicking)
- Leave 1/8" gap between panels
- Stagger joints from row to row (like brickwork)
- Smooth side out for tiling
- Use cement board screws every 8" on studs (1/2" from edges)
- Keep screws flush—don't overdrive
Pro tip: For horizontal joints, center them on studs for solid backing. For vertical joints, don't line up with corners or door frames.
Tape and Mud Seams
- Apply thin layer of thinset over all seams
- Embed alkali-resistant mesh tape (not paper tape!)
- Apply another thin coat of thinset over tape
- Feather edges smooth
- Treat inside corners with tape and thinset (or corner bead)
- Let cure 24 hours before waterproofing
Apply Waterproofing
After thinset cures, apply waterproof membrane over entire surface:
- Liquid membrane (RedGard): Roll on 2 coats, let dry between coats
- Sheet membrane (Kerdi): Apply with unmodified thinset
- Cover entire wet area including curb and niche
- Extend waterproofing 6" beyond direct water exposure
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- ✗Using drywall screws instead of cement board screws (they rust)
- ✗Resting board directly on tub/pan (moisture wicks up)
- ✗Using paper drywall tape instead of alkali-resistant mesh
- ✗Skipping waterproof membrane (backer board is NOT waterproof)
- ✗Overdriving screws (creates weak spots)
- ✗Not wearing proper dust protection when cutting