How to Remove Old Kitchen Flooring
Floor removal is the gruntiest part of kitchen demolition. You will be on your knees for hours, and your back will remind you about it tomorrow. But it is the final major demo task before moving into the rebuild phase. The technique varies dramatically based on what type of flooring you have, so identify your floor type first.
Quick Summary
Time needed
4-12 hours
Cost
$100-400 (tools/disposal)
Difficulty
Hard (physically demanding)
STOP: Asbestos Warning for Pre-1986 Flooring
If your home was built before 1986 and has vinyl flooring (sheet vinyl or vinyl tiles), it may contain asbestos. The backing and adhesive are the main concerns.
Do NOT sand, scrape, or demolish old vinyl without testing first. Either have it professionally tested ($50-100), hire professional asbestos abatement, or encapsulate it by installing new flooring over it.
Identify Your Flooring Type
Floating Floors (Laminate, Click-Lock LVP)
Not glued or nailed - planks click together and float over underlayment.
Glued Vinyl or Linoleum
Sheet vinyl or vinyl tiles glued to subfloor with adhesive. Common in 1970s-1990s kitchens.
Ceramic or Porcelain Tile
Tiles set in thinset mortar over cement board or subfloor. Heavy and labor-intensive.
Hardwood (Nailed or Glued)
Solid wood planks nailed to subfloor or engineered hardwood glued down.
Universal Prep Steps (All Floor Types)
1. Remove Baseboards and Transitions
Carefully pry off baseboards around the kitchen perimeter. Remove transition strips between kitchen and adjacent rooms. Label baseboards if you plan to reuse them.
Pro Tip: Slide a thin putty knife behind baseboards before using a pry bar. This protects the wall. Most people replace baseboards during renovation anyway, so do not stress if they break.
2. Clear the Room Completely
Make sure the kitchen is completely empty. Even small items on the floor slow you down. You need clear access to every square inch.
3. Set Up Dust Control
Floor removal creates huge amounts of dust. Keep your containment barriers up and box fan running. Have a shop vac ready to clean as you work.
Removal Techniques by Floor Type
Removing Floating Floors (Easiest)
- 1.
Start at one wall
Floating floors are not attached to anything. Pry up the first row of planks along one wall using a pry bar.
- 2.
Pull apart the click-lock
Once the first row is up, the rest unlocks easily. Pull planks apart and stack outside the kitchen.
- 3.
Remove underlayment
Roll up and dispose of the foam or felt underlayment. Sweep subfloor clean.
Removing Glued Vinyl or Linoleum (Moderate-Hard)
Remember: Pre-1986 vinyl may contain asbestos. Test before removal or encapsulate.
- 1.
Score and scrape in sections
Use a floor scraper to get under the vinyl edge. Work in 1-2 foot sections, scraping and pulling up vinyl.
- 2.
Apply heat for stubborn areas
Use a heat gun to soften adhesive, then scrape while warm. Work in small areas.
- 3.
Remove remaining adhesive
Scrape off as much old adhesive as possible. For stubborn adhesive, use adhesive remover or rent a power floor stripper.
Time-Saver: For large kitchens, rent a walk-behind floor stripper ($75-100/day). It will cut your time in half compared to hand scraping.
Removing Ceramic or Porcelain Tile (Hardest)
- 1.
Break the first tile
Use a hammer and cold chisel to break one tile near a wall or edge. Wear safety glasses - tile shards fly everywhere.
- 2.
Pry up surrounding tiles
Once you have an opening, use a flat pry bar to pop up adjacent tiles. Work tile by tile. This takes hours.
- 3.
Remove cement board or thinset
If tile was set on cement board, remove the entire cement board layer - it is easier than trying to save it. Scrape remaining thinset off plywood subfloor.
Alternative Method: Use a demo hammer (small jackhammer) to speed up tile removal. You can rent these for $40-60/day. Way faster than hand chiseling but very loud and dusty.
Removing Nailed Hardwood Flooring
- 1.
Decide: save or trash?
Hardwood has resale value. If you are careful, you can remove and sell it. If not, demolish for faster removal.
- 2.
Pry up board by board
Use a pry bar to lift each board. Hardwood is nailed through the tongue into the subfloor. Work carefully to avoid splitting boards if saving them.
- 3.
Pull remaining nails
Remove all nails from the subfloor using a cat's paw or hammer. Patch any large nail holes with wood filler.
After Flooring Removal
Clean the Subfloor Thoroughly
Sweep and vacuum every bit of debris. Even small pieces of old adhesive or tile can telegraph through new flooring and cause problems.
Inspect for Damage
Look for water damage, rot, soft spots, or structural issues. Walk the entire floor - it should feel solid everywhere. Mark any problem areas.
Check Level and Flatness
Use a long level to check for dips or humps. Most new flooring requires the subfloor to be flat within 3/16 inch over 10 feet. You may need to apply floor leveler compound.
Secure Loose Subfloor
Screw down any loose plywood or squeaky areas. Add screws every 6 inches along joists to eliminate movement.
Disposal Options by Material
Floating Floors
Laminate and LVP can go in regular trash if broken into small bundles. Some recycling centers accept these. Check Habitat ReStore - they sometimes take intact floating floors.
Vinyl Flooring
Roll up and tie in bundles. Regular trash or dumpster. Never burn vinyl - toxic fumes. If it contains asbestos, special disposal required.
Tile
Extremely heavy. Use contractor bags or dumpster. Many trash services will not take tile in regular pickup due to weight. Landfill or dumpster rental recommended.
Hardwood
Has resale value. List on Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, or donate to Habitat ReStore. Even damaged hardwood sells for $0.50-2/sq ft for reclaimed projects.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the easiest kitchen flooring to remove?
Floating floors (click-lock laminate or luxury vinyl planks) are easiest to remove because they are not glued or nailed down. You simply pry up the first row and then the rest pulls apart. Tile is typically the hardest to remove because you must break up mortar and deal with heavy ceramic or porcelain pieces.
Do I need to remove old vinyl flooring before installing new flooring?
It depends. Sheet vinyl from before 1986 may contain asbestos and should be covered rather than removed (or removed by a professional). Newer vinyl can be removed, but if it is well-adhered and flat, many installers will lay new flooring over it. Check with your new flooring manufacturer's requirements. Vinyl tiles usually should be removed.
How do I remove glued-down vinyl or linoleum flooring?
Start by using a floor scraper to pry up sections of vinyl. For stubborn areas, apply heat with a heat gun to soften the adhesive, then scrape. You may need to rent a power floor stripper for large areas. After removing the vinyl, scrape off remaining adhesive or apply adhesive remover. This is time-consuming, physical work.
Can I remove kitchen tile without damaging the subfloor?
Some damage to the subfloor is almost inevitable when removing tile. The goal is to minimize it. Use a hammer and flat pry bar to pop tiles up, working carefully. If tiles are set on cement board, it is often easier to remove the cement board entirely rather than trying to save it. Plywood subfloors will likely need patching and smoothing after tile removal.
How long does it take to remove kitchen flooring?
Time varies dramatically by flooring type and kitchen size. Floating floors: 2-3 hours. Glued vinyl: 6-8 hours. Tile: 8-12 hours. Hardwood (nailed): 4-6 hours. These estimates are for an average 10x12 kitchen and do not include disposal. Add 50% more time if you are working alone or the floor has multiple layers.
Demo Complete. Assess the Damage.
With everything torn out, you can now see what you are really working with. Time to inspect walls, subfloor, and structure for any hidden problems.