Cabinets Phase

How to Install Upper Kitchen Cabinets

Upper cabinets are trickier than base cabinets. They're heavy, awkward to hold overhead, and there's no floor to rest them on while you work. But with the right technique—specifically a ledger board—you can hang them solo or with a helper, getting perfectly level results that stay secure for decades.

Quick Summary

Time needed

5-6 hours

Cost

$30-$100 (materials)

Difficulty

Intermediate

Why Upper Cabinet Installation Is Different

Base cabinets sit on the floor—you can nudge them, shim them, and adjust them all day. Upper cabinets hang on the wall. Once you drill those first screw holes, you're committed. If the height is wrong or they're not level, you'll have visible screw holes to patch and repaint.

Safety Warning: Upper cabinets weigh 30-60 pounds empty, more with doors and shelves. One person trying to hold a cabinet overhead while drilling into studs is asking for dropped cabinets, drilled fingers, or worse. Use a ledger board or get help. This isn't the time to be a hero.

The ledger board technique solves all these problems. It's a temporary shelf that supports cabinets at exactly the right height while you level and secure them. Professional installers use this method every time.

Step-by-Step Installation Process

1. Calculate and Mark Cabinet Height

Standard is 18 inches above your countertop, but verify this works for your specific situation.

Height Calculation:

  • Standard countertop: 36 inches from floor
  • Add 18 inches = 54 inches to bottom of upper cabinet
  • For 36-inch tall uppers: top is 90 inches from floor
  • Check ceiling clearance (need 1-2 inches minimum)

Pro Tip: Mark your height line with a laser level if you have one. Otherwise, use a 4-foot level and extend the line across all walls with a pencil. This line represents the BOTTOM of your upper cabinets. Double-check your math before marking.

2. Install Ledger Board

This temporary support board is the secret to easy upper cabinet installation.

Ledger Board Setup:

  • • Use a straight 2x4 at least as long as your cabinet run
  • • Position it 1/4 inch BELOW your cabinet height line
  • • Level it perfectly across the entire run
  • • Screw into wall studs every 16-24 inches (you'll patch these later)
  • • Make sure it's rock-solid—it's supporting all your cabinets

Why 1/4 inch below? This small gap lets you slide cabinets onto the ledger without fighting friction. The ledger supports the weight, but cabinets rest cleanly without binding. If the ledger is exactly at your line, cabinets will hang slightly high when resting on it.

3. Hang Corner or First Cabinet

Like base cabinets, start with a corner unit if you have one. If not, start at one end of the run.

Installation Steps:

  1. 1.Remove doors and shelves to lighten cabinet
  2. 2.Lift cabinet and rest bottom on ledger board
  3. 3.Push cabinet back against wall (or close to it)
  4. 4.Check level side-to-side
  5. 5.Check level front-to-back (cabinet should be plumb)
  6. 6.Shim behind cabinet at stud locations if needed

Smart Move: Mark stud locations INSIDE the cabinet before lifting it. Once it's up, you can't see your wall marks. Measure from a reference point (like a corner) and transfer measurements to the cabinet interior.

4. Secure to Wall Studs

With the cabinet resting on the ledger and perfectly level, it's time to make it permanent.

Securing Process:

  1. 1. Locate studs behind cabinet hanging rail
  2. 2. Drill pilot holes through cabinet back/rail into stud
  3. 3. Drive first 3-inch screw into stud near top
  4. 4. Check level again—adjust if needed
  5. 5. Drive second screw into different stud
  6. 6. Add more screws (minimum 4 total per cabinet)
  7. 7. Verify cabinet is still level and secure

Critical: Don't fully tighten the first screw. Snug it so the cabinet is held but can still be micro-adjusted. After the second screw is started, check level one more time. Then tighten both. Fully tightening the first screw locks you into whatever position you had—no adjustments possible.

5. Add Adjacent Cabinets

Work outward from your first cabinet, adding one at a time.

For Each Cabinet:

  • Lift and rest on ledger board
  • Position next to installed cabinet
  • Align face frames perfectly flush
  • Clamp frames together
  • Check level across both cabinets
  • Secure to wall studs
  • Join face frames with screws

6. Remove Ledger Board

Once all cabinets are secured to the wall and joined to each other, the ledger has done its job.

Final Steps:

  • Verify all cabinets are fully secured to studs
  • Remove ledger board screws and take down the board
  • Fill ledger screw holes with spackle (or leave if backsplash will cover)
  • Reinstall doors and shelves
  • Test door and drawer operation

5 Upper Cabinet Installation Mistakes

1. Skipping the Ledger Board

Trying to hold cabinets, check level, and drive screws simultaneously is nearly impossible and dangerous. The 15 minutes to install a ledger board saves hours of frustration and prevents dropped cabinets.

2. Not Hitting Studs

Drywall anchors cannot support upper cabinets long-term. Every screw must go into a stud. If your cabinet spans between studs, add blocking behind the drywall before installing cabinets, or adjust cabinet positions to hit studs.

3. Wrong Height Measurement

Measure from your actual countertop surface, not from the base cabinet top. Countertop thickness varies. If you measure wrong, your 18-inch gap becomes 19 or 17 inches. Always verify measurements at multiple points along the run.

4. Forcing Cabinets Against Bowed Walls

Walls bow and curve. Forcing cabinets flat against an uneven wall throws them out of level and twists the cabinet boxes. Instead, keep face frames aligned with each other and use trim to cover gaps at the wall.

5. Installing Cabinets Before Crown Molding Plan

If you're adding crown molding, know your plan before hanging uppers. Some crown profiles require specific cabinet-to-ceiling gaps. Installing cabinets, then realizing your crown won't fit, means lowering all cabinets—not fun.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the standard height for upper kitchen cabinets?

Standard upper cabinets are mounted 18 inches above the countertop, which puts the bottom of a 36-inch tall cabinet at 54 inches from the floor. This works for most people, but you can adjust based on ceiling height and user height. Taller homeowners often go to 20-24 inches above countertop for easier access to lower shelves.

Do I really need a ledger board to install upper cabinets?

While not absolutely required, a ledger board makes installation dramatically easier and safer. It supports the cabinet weight while you level and secure it, prevents cabinets from tipping forward, and ensures consistent height across the entire run. Trying to hold a cabinet, level it, and drive screws simultaneously is nearly impossible alone. The ledger board is worth the 15 minutes to install.

How many screws do I need to secure upper cabinets?

Use at least 4 screws per upper cabinet into wall studs—two near the top of the hanging rail and two near the bottom. For cabinets wider than 24 inches, add more screws. Upper cabinets experience significant stress from door opening/closing and shelf weight. Never use fewer than 4 screws, and never screw into just drywall—studs only.

Can I install upper cabinets by myself or do I need help?

Upper cabinets are awkward and heavy (30-60 pounds empty). While possible to install alone with a cabinet lift, it's much safer and easier with a helper. One person supports and positions while the other checks level and drives screws. If working alone, invest in a cabinet jack or lift—trying to hold a cabinet overhead while drilling is dangerous and leads to mistakes.

What if my walls aren't perfectly straight for upper cabinets?

No walls are perfectly straight. Leave a small gap between cabinet backs and walls—don't force cabinets flat against bowed walls or you'll throw them out of level. Use filler strips to cover gaps at cabinet ends. Scribe molding can hide gaps along the top. Focus on keeping face frames perfectly aligned with each other; the wall gaps will be hidden by backsplash, molding, or trim.

Ready for the Next Step?

Both base and upper cabinets are installed. Now it's time to fine-tune the doors and drawers so everything opens and closes perfectly.