Fixtures

Install Your Range Hood and Ventilation System

A properly installed range hood protects your beautiful new kitchen from grease, moisture, and cooking odors. This is the last major fixture install in the Fixtures phase, and it's crucial for long-term kitchen health. Good ventilation prevents the steam and grease from cooking from damaging your cabinets and walls.

Quick Summary

Time needed

3-4 hours

Difficulty

Moderate

Helper needed?

Yes (highly recommended)

Before You Begin

Range hood installation assumes your ductwork and electrical are already roughed-in during the construction phase. You're now connecting the hood to those systems.

Important: This guide covers mounting and connecting a hood to existing ductwork and electrical. If you need to install ductwork through walls or roofs, or run new electrical, that should have been done during the rough-in phase. Those tasks typically require professional help.

What You'll Need:

  • •Drill with bits
  • •Screwdriver set
  • •4-foot level
  • •Tape measure
  • •Stud finder
  • •Wire stripper
  • •Foil duct tape
  • •Wire nuts
  • •Helper (essential)
  • •Safety glasses

Understanding Range Hood Types

Installation varies slightly depending on your hood type. Most renovations use wall-mount or under-cabinet hoods.

Wall-Mount (Chimney) Hood

Mounts directly to the wall behind the range with a chimney that extends to the ceiling. Most common for ranges against a wall. Provides the most flexible installation.

Under-Cabinet Hood

Mounts under a wall cabinet above the range. More compact and less expensive than wall-mount. Good for galley kitchens with cabinets above the range.

Island Hood

Suspends from the ceiling over an island range. Requires ceiling support and ductwork running through the ceiling. Most complex installation.

Insert/Liner Hood

The hood mechanism inserts into a custom cabinet or enclosure. Common in high-end kitchens where the hood is built into cabinetry.

Installation Step-by-Step

1. Verify Ductwork and Electrical Rough-In

Before you start mounting the hood, confirm all the supporting infrastructure is in place.

  • •Check that ductwork extends from the hood location to the exterior vent
  • •Verify the exterior wall cap or roof cap is installed
  • •Confirm electrical outlet or junction box is in the correct location
  • •Measure from the range surface to the duct opening to ensure proper hood height
  • •Have your helper assist with measurements while you're at the range

Proper Hood Height:

  • •Electric cooktops: 18-24 inches above cooking surface
  • •Gas ranges: 24-30 inches above cooking surface
  • •Always check your specific hood's manual for requirements
  • •Too low = head-bumping hazard; too high = poor performance

2. Install the Mounting Bracket

Most hoods come with a mounting bracket that attaches to the wall. This bracket supports the hood's weight.

  • •Use the paper template (if provided) to mark mounting holes
  • •Measure from the range surface to ensure correct height
  • •Center the bracket over the range (measure from edges to ensure centered)
  • •Use a level to make sure the bracket is perfectly horizontal
  • •Locate wall studs and mark them—you want to hit at least one stud
  • •Drill pilot holes and secure bracket with lag bolts into studs
  • •Use heavy-duty drywall anchors for holes that don't hit studs

Critical: Range hoods are heavy (30-80 pounds). The mounting bracket MUST be secured to wall studs, not just drywall. If studs aren't where you need them, install blocking between studs during rough-in, or use toggle bolts rated for heavy loads.

3. Prepare Ductwork Connection

Connect the duct adapter to the hood before mounting it. This is much easier on the ground than up on a ladder.

  • •Attach the duct connector (transition piece) to the hood's exhaust outlet
  • •If your ductwork is round and the hood outlet is rectangular, install the adapter
  • •Secure with screws if the connector has screw holes
  • •Have the foil tape ready for final sealing after the hood is mounted

Pro Tip: Use metal foil tape (the kind used for HVAC), not cloth duct tape, for sealing duct connections. Cloth duct tape degrades over time from heat and moisture. Foil tape creates a permanent seal.

4. Mount the Hood

This is a two-person job. One person supports the hood while the other secures it.

  • •Remove any filters, grease traps, or removable parts to lighten the load
  • •With your helper, lift the hood up to the mounting bracket
  • •Slide the hood onto the bracket hooks (design varies by manufacturer)
  • •While helper holds it level, slide the duct connector into the wall duct
  • •Secure the hood to the mounting bracket with screws
  • •Check that the hood is level side-to-side before final tightening
  • •Seal the duct connection with foil tape—wrap completely around the joint

Safety: Don't attempt to mount a hood alone. They're heavy and awkward, and you need one person to support it while the other makes adjustments and tightens screws. Dropping a hood can damage it and injure you.

5. Connect Electrical

Range hoods are either plug-in or hardwired. Either way, turn off power before making connections.

For Plug-In Hoods:

  • 1.Simply plug the hood's cord into the outlet inside the cabinet or chase
  • 2.Make sure the cord isn't pinched or strained
  • 3.Secure any excess cord with wire ties

For Hardwired Hoods:

  • 1.Turn off power at the circuit breaker
  • 2.Test with voltage tester to confirm power is off
  • 3.Remove the junction box cover on the hood
  • 4.Connect ground wire (bare or green) first
  • 5.Connect white to white (neutral)
  • 6.Connect black to black (hot)
  • 7.Secure all connections with wire nuts
  • 8.Tuck wires into junction box and replace cover

Electrical Safety: If you're not comfortable with electrical wiring, hire an electrician for this step. The mounting is DIY-friendly, but the electrical connection must be done correctly for safety.

6. Install Chimney or Duct Cover (If Applicable)

Wall-mount hoods usually have a decorative chimney that covers the ductwork and extends to the ceiling.

  • •Slide the chimney sections over the duct (usually two pieces that telescope)
  • •Extend the upper section to the ceiling and secure with mounting screws
  • •Adjust the lower section to overlap properly with the upper section
  • •Some chimneys have adjustable brackets for non-standard ceiling heights

7. Test Operation

Before you declare victory, thoroughly test the hood to ensure everything works correctly.

  • •Turn on power at the circuit breaker
  • •Test the light—verify it turns on and off
  • •Turn on the fan at the lowest speed and verify it runs smoothly
  • •Test all fan speeds—listen for unusual noise or vibration
  • •Hold a tissue or piece of paper near the hood to verify it's pulling air in
  • •Go outside and verify air is exhausting from the exterior vent cap
  • •Check for any air leaks at duct connections
  • •Reinstall any filters or grease traps you removed

Success Indicators: The hood should run smoothly at all speeds without excessive noise, you should feel strong airflow when your hand is near the intake, and air should be visibly exhausting from the exterior vent. If all three check out, your hood is properly installed.

Common Issues and Solutions

Hood is very loud

Solutions: Check that all duct connections are tight—loose connections vibrate and rattle. Make sure you're using rigid metal duct, not flexible. Verify duct size matches hood requirements (undersized duct = high velocity = noise). Some high-CFM hoods are just loud at max speed—try lower speeds for everyday cooking.

Weak airflow or poor performance

Solutions: Check the exterior vent cap—make sure the damper opens freely. Look for crushed or kinked duct sections. Verify filters are installed correctly and not clogged. Check that you didn't accidentally install a recirculating kit that blocks the duct outlet. Long duct runs or excessive bends reduce performance.

Hood wobbles or feels unstable

Solutions: Tighten all mounting screws. Verify the mounting bracket is secured to wall studs, not just drywall. Check that the hood is properly engaged with the mounting bracket. For heavy hoods, you may need additional support or larger lag bolts into studs.

Grease dripping from ductwork

Solutions: All duct connections should be sealed with foil tape. Make sure the duct has a slight upward slope toward the exterior so condensation drains back to the hood. Clean or replace grease filters regularly—they should capture most grease before it enters the duct.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I really need to vent my range hood outside, or can I use a recirculating hood?

An externally vented hood is far superior and recommended whenever possible. It removes heat, moisture, smoke, and cooking odors from your home. Recirculating (ductless) hoods just filter and blow air back into the kitchen—they remove grease but not heat or moisture. If you cook frequently, especially with gas, external venting is essential. Recirculating is only acceptable if external venting is truly impossible due to building constraints.

How high should I mount the range hood above my cooktop?

For electric cooktops, mount the hood 18-24 inches above the cooking surface. For gas ranges, mount it 24-30 inches above. Check your specific hood's manual—some high-CFM hoods need more clearance. Mounting too low creates a head-bumping hazard and limits pot sizes you can use. Mounting too high reduces the hood's effectiveness at capturing cooking fumes.

What size duct do I need for my range hood?

Most residential range hoods use 6-inch or 7-inch round duct, or 3.25 x 10-inch rectangular duct. Higher CFM hoods (over 600 CFM) may require 8-inch duct. Always use smooth, rigid metal duct—never flexible ducting for the main run as it restricts airflow. Check your hood's specifications and use the size it requires. Undersized ductwork dramatically reduces performance and increases noise.

Can I install a range hood myself or do I need a professional?

If the ductwork and electrical are already roughed-in, installing the hood itself is a manageable DIY project for someone with basic tools and skills. You'll need a helper to hold the hood while you secure it. However, hire professionals if you need to: run new ductwork through walls or roof, install the exterior vent cap, run new electrical circuits, or if you're dealing with high-CFM commercial-style hoods that require make-up air.

Why is my new range hood so loud?

Noise usually comes from: too-small ductwork creating high air velocity, flexible duct that vibrates, loose connections rattling, or undersized ductwork for the CFM rating. Check that all duct connections are tight and sealed with foil tape. Make sure you're using rigid metal duct, not flexible. If the duct run is properly sized and sealed, the hood may just be noisy—check the sone rating (lower is quieter). Some high-CFM hoods are inherently loud at max speed.

Ready for the Next Step?

With the range hood installed, you've completed the Fixtures phase. Next up is the Finishing phase, starting with painting walls and trim.

Previous: Install Outlets and SwitchesNext: Paint Walls and Trim