How to Install Cabinet Hardware
You're almost done with cabinets. Hardware is the final detail that transforms builder-grade boxes into a custom kitchen. But here's the thing: one crooked knob jumps out every time you look at it. One pull placed 1/4 inch off from the others ruins the whole run. Precision matters here more than anywhere else.
Quick Summary
Time needed
3-4 hours
Cost
$100-$500
Difficulty
Easy
Why Hardware Placement Is Critical
Cabinet hardware is tactile. You touch it dozens of times a day. When placement is off, you feel it every time you reach for a door. When it's perfectly consistent, it becomes invisible—just a natural part of how your kitchen works.
The $200 Mistake: A homeowner didn't use a template. Measured each door by hand. Half the knobs ended up 2.5 inches from the corner, half at 3 inches, a few at 2.75 inches. You couldn't see the difference on individual doors, but across a wall of cabinets? Looked sloppy. Had to drill new holes and patch the old ones.
The solution is simple: make a template. Spend 10 minutes on a jig, save hours of measuring, and guarantee perfect results.
Step-by-Step Installation Process
1. Plan Your Placement Strategy
Before touching a drill, decide exactly where hardware goes on every type of door and drawer.
Standard Placement Rules:
Upper Cabinet Doors (Knobs):
Bottom corner, 2.5-3 inches from both edges. Place on the corner closest to adjacent cabinet for consistent visual line.
Lower Cabinet Doors (Knobs):
Top corner, 2.5-3 inches from both edges. This places hardware at comfortable reaching height.
Drawer Pulls:
Centered horizontally. For small drawers (under 6"), center vertically. For tall drawers, place in upper third for easier access.
Door Pulls:
Center on the door stile (vertical frame piece), same distance from top/bottom as knobs would be from corner.
Pro Tip: Tape a few pieces of hardware in different positions and live with it for a day. Open those doors multiple times. What feels natural? That's your placement. Don't trust online recommendations blindly—trust what works for your grip and height.
2. Make a Drilling Template
This is the difference between amateur and professional results.
Simple Template Method:
- 1. Cut scrap wood/cardboard to door width
- 2. Mark your placement (e.g., 2.5" from corner)
- 3. Drill hole at mark
- 4. For pulls with two holes, mark and drill both holes at correct spacing
- 5. Label template (e.g., "UPPER DOOR KNOB")
- 6. Make separate templates for drawers, lower doors, etc.
Advanced: Adjustable Template:
Buy a commercial hardware jig (around $20-40). These have adjustable stops and built-in drill guides. Worth it if you have more than 15 pieces of hardware to install.
3. Mark All Drill Locations
Use your template to mark every door and drawer before drilling anything. This lets you catch mistakes early.
Marking Process:
- 1.Remove all doors and drawer fronts
- 2.Lay them face-down on a protected work surface
- 3.Position template on first piece
- 4.Mark through template hole with pencil or awl
- 5.Make a small dimple with nail or awl (drilling start point)
- 6.Repeat for every piece
Critical Check: Before drilling, look at all your marks. Do they line up visually? Lay doors next to each other and verify marks are in the same position. Catching a measurement error now costs zero. Catching it after drilling costs time and wood filler.
4. Drill Pilot Holes
Proper drilling technique prevents split wood, blowout, and crooked holes.
Drilling Best Practices:
- •Apply painter's tape to back of door at drill location (prevents blowout)
- •Use drill bit sized for your hardware screws
- •Drill perpendicular to the surface (not at an angle)
- •Go slowly with steady pressure
- •Stop immediately when bit breaks through the back
- •Remove tape and check hole quality before moving on
Smart Technique: Drill from the front (visible side) through to the back. This gives you a clean hole on the side that matters. The back can be slightly rough—you won't see it. Going back-to-front often causes splintering on the visible front surface.
5. Install Hardware
With holes drilled, installation is straightforward. But don't rush—you can still make mistakes.
For Knobs (Single Screw):
- 1. Insert screw from inside of door
- 2. Thread knob onto screw from outside
- 3. Tighten while holding knob straight (don't cross-thread)
- 4. Snug firm—don't overtighten and strip threads
For Pulls (Two Screws):
- 1. Insert both screws from inside
- 2. Thread pull onto both screws from outside
- 3. Start both screws before tightening either one
- 4. Tighten alternately (don't max one then the other)
- 5. Check that pull sits flush and straight
Don't Overtighten: Stop when hardware feels snug. If you keep cranking, you'll either strip the threads (knob spins uselessly) or crack the door/drawer front (very bad on painted surfaces). Hand-tight plus a quarter turn is plenty.
6. Reinstall Doors and Drawers
With hardware installed, put everything back on the cabinets.
Final Installation:
- •Rehang all doors on hinges
- •Reattach drawer fronts to drawer boxes
- •Check that hardware doesn't interfere with operation
- •Verify pulls don't hit adjacent doors when opening
- •Clean fingerprints from all hardware
Common Hardware Types and When to Use Them
Knobs
Single screw mount, compact design.
Best for: Traditional kitchens, smaller doors, when you want minimal visual impact.
Cost: $2-15 each
Bar Pulls
Two screw mount, horizontal or vertical.
Best for: Modern kitchens, drawers, heavy doors, easier grip than knobs.
Cost: $5-25 each
Cup Pulls
Two screw mount, vintage/traditional style.
Best for: Traditional or farmhouse kitchens, drawers, when you want classic look.
Cost: $6-20 each
Edge Pulls
Mount on top or side edge of door/drawer.
Best for: Ultra-modern kitchens, handleless look, when you don't want visible hardware.
Cost: $8-30 each
5 Hardware Installation Mistakes
1. Not Using a Template
Measuring each door individually leads to inconsistent placement. Variations of even 1/8 inch are noticeable across a wall of cabinets. Always use a template or jig.
2. Wrong Screw Length
Screws too short won't hold. Screws too long poke through the front of your door. Measure door thickness, add hardware base thickness, subtract 1/8 inch. That's your maximum screw length.
3. Drilling at an Angle
Angled holes make hardware sit crooked. Use a drill press if you have one, or be extremely careful to drill perpendicular. For critical pieces, use a drilling guide or jig with bushings.
4. Not Accounting for Door Overlay
On overlay doors (most modern cabinets), hardware placement affects which doors can open when others are open. Test clearance before drilling—especially on corner cabinets and adjacent doors.
5. Mixing Hardware Finishes
"Brushed nickel" from two different manufacturers won't match. Buy all hardware from the same brand and collection. Order extras for future repairs—finishes get discontinued and you won't find exact matches later.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where should I place knobs and pulls on cabinet doors?
Standard placement for knobs is 2.5-3 inches from the corner of the door, measured diagonally. For upper cabinets, place knobs on the bottom corner closest to the adjacent cabinet. For lower cabinets, place them on the top corner. For pulls, center them vertically on the door stile (vertical piece of the frame), typically 2.5-3 inches from the edge.
How do I prevent wood from splitting when drilling cabinet hardware?
Use painter's tape on the back of the door where the drill will exit—this prevents blowout and splintering. Drill slowly with steady pressure. Use a sharp drill bit sized for your screw diameter. For hardwoods, drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the screw. Never force the drill or drill too fast, which causes heat and splits wood.
What is the standard spacing for drawer pulls?
For drawer pulls, center them horizontally on the drawer front. Vertical placement depends on drawer height: for drawers under 6 inches tall, center the pull vertically. For taller drawers (6+ inches), place pulls on the upper third of the drawer front for easier access. For wide drawers (30+ inches), consider using two pulls spaced evenly.
Should I use knobs or pulls on my kitchen cabinets?
Common approaches: 1) Knobs on doors, pulls on drawers (most popular), 2) All pulls for a modern look, or 3) All knobs for traditional style. Pulls are easier to grip and work better for heavy doors and drawers. Knobs are less expensive and work well on smaller doors. For mixed use, buy from the same collection so finishes match perfectly.
How do I make a template for consistent hardware placement?
Cut a piece of scrap wood or sturdy cardboard the exact width of your cabinet door. Mark your desired hardware position (e.g., 2.5 inches from corner). Drill a hole at this mark. Now you can place this template on every door, mark through the hole with a pencil, and drill. This ensures every piece of hardware sits in exactly the same position. Professional installers always use templates.
Ready for the Next Step?
Cabinets are complete—installed, adjusted, and fitted with beautiful hardware. Now it's time to move on to countertops, starting with templating.