Finishes PhaseStep 39 of 45

Install Kitchen Flooring

Kitchen flooring must withstand water, dropped dishes, heavy foot traffic, and constant cleaning. The right choice balances durability, comfort, maintenance, and style. Here's how to choose and install flooring that lasts.

Quick Summary

Time

1-3 days

Cost

$500-$5,000

Difficulty

Medium

Acclimate

48-72 hours

Kitchen Flooring Comparison

FeatureLVPTileHardwood
Water ResistanceWaterproofWaterproofLimited
DurabilityHigh (20+ years)Very High (50+ years)High (refinishable)
ComfortSoft, warmHard, coldWarm underfoot
Cost (installed)$3-8/sq ft$6-20/sq ft$8-15/sq ft
DIY FriendlyVery easyModerateModerate
MaintenanceLowGrout needs careNeeds refinishing
Resale ValueGoodExcellentExcellent
BEST VALUE

Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP)

The modern kitchen flooring champion. 100% waterproof, comfortable underfoot, easy DIY installation, and available in stunning wood and stone looks. Click-lock floating installation means no adhesive and easy replacement if damaged.

$3-8/sq ft installed20+ year lifespanEasy DIY installation
MOST DURABLE

Porcelain or Ceramic Tile

The traditional kitchen choice for good reason. Completely waterproof, incredibly durable, works with radiant heating. Available in endless styles including realistic wood looks. Hard and cold underfoot without heating; grout requires maintenance.

$6-20/sq ft installed50+ year lifespanRadiant heat compatible
PREMIUM

Hardwood (Solid or Engineered)

Nothing matches the warmth and character of real wood. Can be refinished multiple times. Engineered hardwood handles moisture better than solid. Requires immediate spill cleanup. Best choice when continuing wood from adjacent rooms.

$8-15/sq ft installedCan be refinishedBest for open floor plans

Before You Start

Pre-Installation Checklist

All cabinets and appliances are installed
Flooring has acclimated 48-72 hours in room
Subfloor is level (within 3/16" over 10 feet)
Old flooring removed and subfloor cleaned
You have 10% extra material for cuts and waste

Tools and Materials

Essential Tools

  • • Tape measure
  • • Utility knife or appropriate saw
  • • Rubber mallet and tapping block
  • • Spacers (1/4" for expansion gap)
  • • Level (4-foot or longer)
  • • Pull bar for tight spaces
  • • Knee pads

Materials

  • • Flooring material (+ 10% extra)
  • • Underlayment with vapor barrier
  • • Transition strips (T-molding, reducers)
  • • Quarter round or shoe molding
  • • Finishing nails or adhesive
  • • Floor leveling compound (if needed)

Step-by-Step Installation

1

Remove Old Flooring and Prep Subfloor

Remove existing flooring down to the subfloor. Check for damage, rot, or squeaks - fix these now. Fill low spots with floor leveling compound. Sand down high spots. The subfloor should be level within 3/16" over 10 feet.

Pro Tip: Screw down squeaky areas from above into joists. This is your last easy chance to fix squeaks before new flooring goes in.

2

Acclimate Your Flooring

Leave flooring material in the room for 48-72 hours before installation. This allows it to adjust to temperature and humidity, preventing expansion or contraction after installation. Keep room at normal living conditions.

Note: Some LVP manufacturers say acclimation isn't necessary, but 24-48 hours is still good practice to let material reach room temperature.

3

Install Underlayment

For floating floors (LVP, laminate, engineered hardwood), install underlayment. Roll out sheets perpendicular to flooring direction. Tape seams. On concrete, ensure moisture barrier faces down.

Important: Some LVP has attached underlayment - don't double up. Check manufacturer requirements.

4

Plan Layout and Start First Row

Start from the longest, most visible wall. Place 1/4" spacers against walls for expansion gap. Lay first row with tongue facing wall. Check that first row is perfectly straight - this determines everything that follows.

Layout Tips:

  • • Run planks parallel to longest wall for best visual flow
  • • Or parallel to main light source (reduces seam visibility)
  • • Calculate last row width - if less than 3", rip first row narrower
  • • Mix planks from multiple boxes for natural color variation
5

Click Planks Together

For click-lock flooring, angle new plank into previous row and press down until it clicks. Use tapping block and rubber mallet - never hammer directly on planks. Stagger end joints at least 6-8 inches between rows.

Pro Tip: Work left to right if right-handed. Start each row with the cut-off from the previous row (if 8" or longer) to minimize waste.

6

Cut Around Obstacles

Measure and mark cuts carefully. Use utility knife for LVP straight cuts, jigsaw or oscillating tool for complex cuts around door jambs and cabinets. Undercut door jambs to slide flooring beneath rather than scribing around them.

7

Install Last Row and Transitions

Rip last row to fit with 1/4" expansion gap. Use pull bar to engage clicks in tight spaces. Install transition strips at doorways between different flooring materials or room changes.

8

Install Baseboards or Quarter Round

Cover the expansion gap with baseboards or quarter round molding. Nail into wall, not floor - flooring needs to move freely. Paint or stain trim to match. Remove spacers after trim is installed.

Complete: Give floor 24 hours before moving heavy appliances back. Use felt pads under furniture to prevent scratching.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1

Skipping subfloor preparation

Uneven subfloors cause clicking, gaps, and premature wear. Taking time to level and clean the subfloor is essential for long-lasting results.

2

Not leaving expansion gaps

All floating floors need room to expand and contract. Without 1/4" gaps around perimeter, floors will buckle or peak in temperature changes.

3

Installing under dishwasher incorrectly

Don't trap dishwasher with flooring. Either install flooring to front of opening only, or ensure there's enough height clearance to remove dishwasher.

4

Not staggering end joints

End joints should be at least 6-8 inches apart between rows. Aligned joints look unnatural and create weak points in the floor.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best flooring for kitchens?

LVP is currently most popular due to waterproof properties, durability, comfort, and realistic wood or stone looks. Porcelain tile is also excellent - completely waterproof and extremely durable. Hardwood adds warmth and value but requires more maintenance.

Is LVP flooring waterproof?

Yes, quality LVP is 100% waterproof. The vinyl core won't absorb water, swell, or warp. However, water can seep through seams with prolonged standing water. LVP is ideal for kitchens but spills should still be wiped up promptly.

Can you put hardwood floors in a kitchen?

Yes, with proper care. Use water-resistant finishes, clean spills immediately, and use mats near sink and dishwasher. Engineered hardwood handles moisture better than solid. Many homeowners prefer continuous wood look from adjacent rooms.

How long does it take to install kitchen flooring?

For an average kitchen: 1-2 days for LVP or laminate, 2-3 days for tile (including grout cure time), 1-2 days for engineered hardwood. Add time for old flooring removal and subfloor prep. Acclimation adds 2-3 days before installation.