How to Install Cabinet Hardware Like a Pro
This is the moment your cabinet transformation comes together. New hardware is the jewelry of your kitchen—get the placement right and your cabinets will look professionally renovated.
Quick Summary
1-3 hours
Easy to Moderate
$10-25 (tools only)
Why a Hardware Jig Changes Everything
The difference between DIY-looking hardware installation and professional results comes down to one thing: consistency. Every knob and pull needs to be in exactly the same position on every door and drawer. Measuring each one individually invites errors—even being off by 1/8" is noticeable when you step back and look at your kitchen.
A hardware installation jig or template solves this problem. You set your measurements once, then replicate them perfectly across 20, 30, or 40 pieces of hardware. It's a $10-15 investment that saves hours of frustration and delivers professional results.
Tools and Supplies You'll Need
Essential Tools
- Hardware installation jig – Liberty, Kreg, or similar ($10-15)
- Power drill – Cordless preferred for maneuverability
- Drill bit set – 3/16" is standard for most hardware
- Phillips screwdriver – For final tightening (don't overtighten with drill)
- Tape measure – For initial setup
- Pencil – Mechanical pencil gives finer marks
- Painter's tape – Prevents tear-out on finished surfaces
If Filling Old Holes
- Wood filler – Bondo or DAP Plastic Wood for painted cabinets
- Putty knife – For applying and smoothing filler
- 120 and 220-grit sandpaper – For smoothing dried filler
- Matching primer and paint – For touch-ups
- Small foam roller or brush – For touch-up application
Standard Hardware Placement
There's no single "correct" placement, but these are the most common and visually balanced options:
| Cabinet Type | Knob Placement | Pull Placement |
|---|---|---|
| Upper cabinets | 2-3" from bottom corner | Bottom corner, horizontal |
| Lower cabinets | 2-3" from top corner | Top corner, horizontal |
| Drawers | Centered | Centered, horizontal |
| Tall pantry doors | 36-40" from floor | Vertical, 36-40" from floor |
Pro Tip: For shaker-style doors, align hardware with the inside edge of the frame for a clean look. For flat-panel doors, center placement often works best.
Step-by-Step Installation
Step 1: Plan Your Placement Strategy
Before drilling anything, decide on your placement for each cabinet type. Consider:
- Will uppers and lowers have matching placement (common) or different (also acceptable)?
- Are you using knobs only, pulls only, or a combination?
- Will drawer pulls be horizontal (standard) or vertical?
Write down your measurements: "Upper cabinets: knob 2.5" from bottom edge, 2.5" from opening edge." This becomes your reference.
Step 2: Set Up Your Jig
Most hardware jigs work similarly:
- 1.Loosen the adjustment screws
- 2.Set the vertical distance from the door edge
- 3.Set the horizontal distance from the door edge
- 4.For pulls, set the hole spacing (your center-to-center measurement)
- 5.Lock all adjustments tightly
Test on a scrap piece of wood first. Drill the holes, install a piece of hardware, and verify it's where you want it.
Step 3: Mark and Drill
For each door or drawer:
- 1.Apply painter's tape over the drill area (prevents chip-out on finished surfaces)
- 2.Position the jig against the edge of the door
- 3.Hold firmly or clamp the jig in place
- 4.Drill through the guide holes using consistent pressure
- 5.Remove the tape and blow out any dust
Avoid This Mistake: Don't drill too fast. Slow, steady pressure prevents the bit from wandering and creates cleaner holes. If drilling through laminate or thermofoil, go extra slow to prevent chipping.
Step 4: Deal with Old Holes (If Needed)
If your new hardware doesn't align with existing holes:
- 1.Clean the holes with a small brush to remove debris
- 2.Fill with wood filler – push it in firmly, overfill slightly
- 3.Let dry completely (follow product directions, usually 2-4 hours)
- 4.Sand flush – start with 120-grit, finish with 220-grit
- 5.Prime the patch – use your bonding primer
- 6.Touch up paint – use a small foam roller for best texture match
- 7.Wait 24 hours before drilling new holes through the repaired area
Step 5: Install the Hardware
- 1.Insert screws from the back of the door through to the front
- 2.Thread the hardware onto the screw(s)
- 3.Hand-tighten first until the hardware is seated against the door
- 4.Final tighten with screwdriver – snug but not overtightened
- 5.Check alignment – hardware should be level and not tilted
Pro Tip: The screws that come with hardware are often too long or too short for your specific doors. Before buying hardware in bulk, test one piece and measure what screw length you actually need. Most hardware stores sell replacement screws by the piece.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Hardware is Wobbly
The hole is too large for the screw. Solutions:
- Apply a drop of wood glue in the hole, let it dry, then reinstall
- Use a slightly larger screw (same thread pitch, thicker shaft)
- Fill the hole completely and re-drill
Screw Won't Go Through
The hole is too small. Drill it out slightly with the next size up bit. Don't force the screw—you'll strip the head.
Hardware Sits Crooked
Check that your jig hasn't slipped between holes (for pulls). If the holes are already drilled wrong:
- Fill both holes with wood filler
- Wait for complete cure
- Re-drill carefully with jig firmly clamped
Screw is Too Long
The screw pokes through the front of the door. Either:
- Add washers to the back to take up space
- Cut the screw with a hacksaw or rotary tool
- Buy shorter screws (recommended for clean look)
Working with Different Door Styles
Shaker and Raised Panel Doors
These have a frame around a center panel. Place hardware on the frame (stiles), not the panel. This looks intentional and avoids drilling into the thinner center panel.
Slab (Flat) Doors
You have complete freedom with placement. Common options:
- Corner placement (matches traditional cabinet hardware)
- Centered on the door (modern, clean look)
- Off-center for visual interest
Glass-Front Doors
Place hardware on the solid frame only. Never drill through or near glass. The screw will be visible from inside—use decorative screws or accept that functional beauty is the goal.
Quality Check
When you're done, step back and evaluate:
- Consistency: Do all pieces look like they're at the same height and position?
- Levelness: Are pulls horizontal? Are knobs not tilted?
- Tightness: Wiggle each piece—nothing should move
- Function: Open and close every door and drawer to confirm hardware doesn't interfere
FAQ
Do I need a hardware jig?
While not strictly necessary, a hardware jig ($10-15) makes installation dramatically easier and more consistent. It eliminates measuring each door individually and ensures every piece is placed at exactly the same position. You can make a cardboard template, but commercial jigs save time and reduce mistakes.
How do I fill old hardware holes?
Fill old holes with wood filler (Bondo or DAP Plastic Wood), let dry completely, sand flush with the surface, prime the area, and touch up paint to match. For painted cabinets, the repair will be nearly invisible.
Where should cabinet hardware be placed?
Standard placement: upper cabinets on the bottom corner (opposite the hinge), lower cabinets on the top corner, drawers in the center. Pulls are typically 2.5-4" from the edge. The key is consistency across your entire kitchen.
What size drill bit do I need for cabinet hardware?
Most cabinet hardware uses standard machine screws that require a 3/16" (or 5mm) drill bit. Check your specific hardware's specifications. Drilling a slightly larger hole makes installation easier without compromising strength.