How to Choose the Right Deck Fastening Method
Your fastening method affects the look of your deck, installation speed, future maintenance, and cost. There's no single best choice—each method has trade-offs. Here's how to choose what's right for your project.
Quick Summary
15-30 minutes
2-3x for hidden vs face
Decking type + budget
The Three Main Fastening Methods
Every deck board needs to be secured to the joists below. How you do it affects appearance, installation time, cost, and long-term performance. Let's compare the options.
Face Screws
Most CommonScrews are driven through the face of the decking into the joists below. This is the traditional method and still the most popular choice. The screw heads are visible on the deck surface.
Pros
- + Fastest installation method
- + Lowest material cost
- + Easy to remove boards for repairs
- + Works with all decking types
- + Simple for beginners
- + Maximum holding power
Cons
- - Visible screw heads on surface
- - Screw holes can collect water/debris
- - Requires care for consistent appearance
- - Can split boards near edges
Cost per sq ft
$0.15-0.30
Installation speed
Fastest
Skill level
Beginner
Hidden Fasteners (Edge Clips)
Premium LookMetal or plastic clips attach to the side of each board and screw into the joist. The clips are hidden between boards, leaving a clean surface. Works with solid-edge decking (not grooved).
Pros
- + Clean, screw-free surface
- + No surface water penetration
- + Consistent board spacing
- + Works with hardwoods
- + Premium appearance
Cons
- - 2-3x material cost of screws
- - Slower installation
- - More difficult to remove boards
- - Requires more precision
- - May not work with all decking
Cost per sq ft
$0.40-0.80
Installation speed
Moderate
Skill level
Intermediate
Groove Clips
For CompositeClips fit into pre-milled grooves on the sides of composite decking boards. The clip sits in the groove and screws into the joist. This system is designed specifically for grooved-edge composite decking.
Pros
- + Perfectly hidden fastening
- + Fast installation (faster than edge clips)
- + Consistent spacing built-in
- + Designed for composite expansion
- + No surface penetration
Cons
- - Only works with grooved decking
- - Must use manufacturer's clips
- - Premium cost for clips
- - Board removal is difficult
Cost per sq ft
$0.30-0.60
Installation speed
Fast
Skill level
Beginner-Intermediate
Choosing Screws for Face Fastening
If you're face-screwing (the most common method), selecting the right screws is critical. The wrong screws will corrode, strip, or fail within years.
For Pressure-Treated Lumber
The copper in modern pressure treatment (ACQ, CA-C) corrodes standard screws quickly. You must use:
- Coated deck screws – Ceramic, epoxy, or polymer coatings resist corrosion
- Stainless steel – 305 or 316 grade (best for coastal areas)
- Hot-dipped galvanized – Acceptable but may show rust over time
Warning: Standard zinc-plated screws will corrode and fail. Look for "ACQ compatible" or "for treated wood" on packaging.
For Cedar and Redwood
Natural wood acids and tannins can react with certain metals, causing staining. Use:
- Stainless steel – Best choice, prevents staining
- Ceramic-coated – Works well, less expensive than stainless
For Composite Decking
Most composite decking uses hidden fasteners, but if face-screwing is needed:
- Color-matched composite screws – Many manufacturers offer matching screws
- Stainless steel trim-head screws – Smaller heads are less visible
For Tropical Hardwoods (Ipe, Cumaru)
Dense hardwoods require special considerations:
- Stainless steel only – Other materials corrode from extractives
- Must pre-drill – Hardwoods will split or break screws without pilot holes
- Hidden fasteners often preferred – Better appearance for premium wood
Screw Size and Pattern
| Decking Thickness | Screw Size | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 5/4" decking (1" actual) | #8 x 2-1/2" | Standard for most residential decks |
| 2x decking (1-1/2" actual) | #10 x 3" | For thicker lumber, often commercial |
| Composite (7/8" to 1") | #8 x 2-1/2" | Check manufacturer specs |
Screw Placement
- Two screws per joist – One near each edge of the board
- 3/4" from board edge – Close enough to prevent cupping, far enough to avoid splitting
- Pre-drill near ends – Always pre-drill within 2" of board ends to prevent splitting
- Use a chalk line – Snap lines for consistent screw placement that looks professional
Pro Tip: For the cleanest look with face screws, use a spacing jig that positions screws identically on each board. The difference between random placement and lined-up screws is immediately visible.
Installing Hidden Fasteners: The Process
Step 1: Install Starter Clips
The first board against the house uses special starter clips or is face-screwed along the house edge (where it's hidden). Position the first board and secure starter clips to the joist on the outer edge of the board.
Step 2: Attach Standard Clips
Seat each clip firmly against the side of the installed board. Drive the screw into the joist center. The clip should be snug but allow the board to move slightly for expansion.
Step 3: Position Next Board
Slide the next board into the clips at an angle, then drop it flat. The clip creates consistent spacing automatically. Check that the board is fully seated in all clips.
Step 4: Install End Clips or Face Screw
The final board typically requires face screwing along the outer edge (where fascia will cover it) or special end clips. Plan this before starting to ensure you have the right materials.
Calculating Fastener Quantities
Face Screws
Formula: (deck square footage / board coverage) x (joists per board) x 2 screws
Example: 400 sq ft deck with 5.5" wide boards at 16" joist spacing:
400 / 0.46 sq ft per ft = ~870 linear feet / 12 = ~73 boards
73 boards x 10 joists x 2 screws = 1,460 screws + 10% = ~1,600 screws
Hidden Fasteners
Formula: (number of boards) x (joists per board) + starter/end clips
Example: Same 400 sq ft deck:
73 boards x 10 joists = 730 clips + 10% = ~800 clips
Plus starter clips for first board (~10) and end treatment
Common Fastening Mistakes
Using wrong screws for treated lumber
Standard screws corrode rapidly in ACQ-treated wood. Always use screws rated for pressure-treated lumber.
Overdriving screws
Screws driven too deep break through the bottom of the decking or create pockets that collect water. Set your driver clutch properly.
Not pre-drilling near board ends
Splitting at board ends is common without pilot holes. Take the extra moment to pre-drill any screw within 2" of the end.
Inconsistent screw placement
Random screw placement looks sloppy. Use chalk lines and consistent measurements for a professional appearance.
Mixing fastener types
Using hidden fasteners for most boards then face-screwing random boards creates an inconsistent look. Plan your approach before starting.
FAQ
What type of screws should I use for pressure-treated decking?
Use screws labeled "ACQ compatible" or "for treated wood." Options include ceramic-coated, polymer-coated, or stainless steel screws. Standard zinc-plated screws will corrode and fail within a few years.
Are hidden deck fasteners worth the extra cost?
Hidden fasteners cost 2-3x more and take longer to install, but provide a clean surface with no water penetration. They're worth it for premium decking or when aesthetics are a priority. For budget builds, face screwing is perfectly acceptable.
How many deck screws do I need per board?
Use two screws per joist per board. At 16" joist spacing, a 12-foot board needs about 20 screws. Calculate your total, then add 10% for waste and future repairs.
Can I use a nail gun for deck boards?
Nail guns are not recommended. Nails lack the holding power of screws and work loose as wood moves seasonally. Use screws for a secure, long-lasting deck.