How to Remove Bathroom Fixtures
Removing bathroom fixtures is the first hands-on demolition work in your renovation. Done methodically, it's a satisfying DIY task that saves hundreds in labor costs. The key is working in the right order and knowing when to cut your losses on stubborn connections.
Quick Summary
Time needed
4-8 hours
Difficulty
Medium
Cost
DIY or included
Tools and Materials Needed
Essential tools
- Adjustable wrench (10-inch and 6-inch)
- Channel-lock pliers
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
- Utility knife with extra blades
- Bucket and towels
- Hacksaw or reciprocating saw
Helpful supplies
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or WD-40)
- Plastic bags for toilet removal
- Old rags for drain plugs
- Headlamp or work light
- Knee pads
- Safety glasses
Removal Order (Easiest to Hardest)
Remove fixtures in this order to avoid unnecessary complications and give yourself more working room as you progress.
Toilet
Easiest, creates floor space, two bolts and done
Vanity and sink
Simple plumbing disconnects, usually not heavy
Medicine cabinet and mirrors
Just screws, but watch for broken glass
Shower doors or curtain rod
Clear access to the tub area
Bathtub or shower
Heaviest and most complex removal
Detailed Removal Instructions
How to Remove a Toilet
Time required: 20-30 minutes
Difficulty: Easy - great first demo project
- 1.
Turn off water supply
Locate the shutoff valve behind the toilet (usually on the wall or floor) and turn clockwise to close. If the valve is stuck or leaking, turn off the main water instead.
- 2.
Flush to empty tank
Flush the toilet once to drain the tank. Hold the handle down for a complete flush. Use a sponge or towel to soak up remaining water in the tank and bowl.
- 3.
Disconnect supply line
Use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the water supply line at the bottom of the tank. Have a towel ready—some water will drip out. Place the line in a bucket.
- 4.
Remove toilet bolts
Pop off the plastic caps at the base (one on each side). Unscrew the nuts with a wrench or pliers. If bolts are rusted, spray with penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes, or just cut them with a hacksaw.
- 5.
Lift and remove toilet
Rock the toilet gently side-to-side to break the wax seal. Lift straight up—toilets weigh 60-100 lbs. Carry it directly outside or to the dumpster. Tip: slide a plastic bag over the bottom to contain dripping wax.
- 6.
Plug the drain pipe
Stuff an old rag or towel into the open drain pipe to block sewer gases from entering your home. This is important—sewer gas smells terrible.
How to Remove a Vanity and Sink
Time required: 30-60 minutes
Difficulty: Easy to Medium
- 1.
Turn off water valves
Close both hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink (turn clockwise). Open the faucet to verify water is off and drain the lines.
- 2.
Disconnect supply lines
Use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the flexible supply lines from both the shutoff valves and the faucet tailpieces (the threaded pipes coming down from the faucet). Have a bucket ready for residual water.
- 3.
Remove P-trap drain
Place bucket under P-trap (the curved pipe under the sink). Loosen the slip nuts on both sides of the P-trap with channel-lock pliers or by hand. Water and gunk will pour out—this is normal and gross. Stuff a rag in the exposed drain pipe.
- 4.
Cut caulk and sealant
Use a utility knife to cut through caulk along the backsplash where the vanity meets the wall. Also cut around the sink if it's attached to the countertop. This prevents tearing drywall when you pull the vanity away.
- 5.
Remove mounting screws
Look inside the cabinet for screws going through a mounting rail into the wall studs. There are usually 2-4 screws. Remove all of them. Some vanities are only held by caulk—if you don't see screws, it might be free.
- 6.
Pull vanity away from wall
Gently pull the vanity away from the wall. If it's stuck, you missed some caulk or a screw. Don't force it—you'll damage the drywall. Once free, carry it out.
How to Remove a Bathtub or Shower
Time required: 2-4 hours
Difficulty: Medium to Hard (depends on tub type)
Important: Tub type determines removal method.
- • Fiberglass/acrylic: Can be cut and removed in pieces
- • Steel: Lightweight but edges are sharp
- • Cast iron: 300-500 lbs, requires help or breaking into pieces
- 1.
Remove tub spout and drain trim
Unscrew the tub spout (twists counterclockwise) and remove any visible drain covers or overflow plates. This exposes the drain assembly.
- 2.
Disconnect drain from below (if accessible)
If you have access to the drain from underneath (basement or crawlspace), disconnect the P-trap and drain assembly. If not accessible, you'll cut it during removal—that's fine.
- 3.
Remove surrounding tile or wall
For alcove tubs, you need to remove at least the bottom row of tile on all three walls to expose the tub flange (the lip that tucks behind the wall). Use a hammer and chisel or pry bar. This is dusty work.
- 4.
Cut caulk around edges
Run a utility knife along all caulked edges where the tub meets the tile, floor, or walls. Cut deeply to fully separate the tub.
- 5.
Fiberglass/acrylic: Cut into sections
Use a reciprocating saw to cut fiberglass tubs into 3-4 manageable pieces. Wear safety glasses—fiberglass particles are irritating. This makes removal much easier than trying to maneuver a full tub through a doorway.
- 6.
Cast iron: Break with sledgehammer or hire help
Cast iron tubs are incredibly heavy. Cover the tub with a tarp or blanket, then break it into pieces with a sledgehammer (wear safety glasses and ear protection). Or hire 2-3 people to carry it out whole. It's backbreaking work.
- 7.
Remove tub pieces
Carefully carry out all tub sections. Watch for sharp edges on metal or fiberglass. Have a clear path to the dumpster before starting—you don't want to set heavy pieces down multiple times.
Safety Precautions
Lifting technique
Bend at the knees, not the waist. Toilets and vanities are heavier than they look. Get help for anything over 100 lbs.
Sharp edges
Cut metal and broken fiberglass create razor-sharp edges. Wear heavy gloves when handling cut sections.
Water exposure
Even with valves shut, pipes contain residual water. Keep towels handy and work over buckets when disconnecting plumbing.
Sewer gas
Always plug exposed drain pipes with rags immediately after fixture removal. Sewer gas isn't just smelly—it's toxic in concentration.
Mold exposure
Old caulk and areas behind fixtures may have mold growth. Wear an N95 mask when removing fixtures, especially in humid bathrooms.
Tight spaces
Bathroom work means kneeling, bending, and working in cramped positions. Use knee pads and take breaks to avoid injury.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I remove a toilet by myself?
Yes, toilet removal is a straightforward DIY task. The key steps are: turn off water, flush to empty tank, disconnect the supply line, remove the two floor bolts, and lift the toilet straight up. Standard toilets weigh 60-100 pounds, so it's manageable for one person but easier with two. The messiest part is breaking the old wax seal.
How do I disconnect a vanity from the wall?
First, disconnect all plumbing underneath the sink (hot and cold supply lines, then the P-trap drain). Next, cut any caulk or sealant along the backsplash with a utility knife. Finally, remove screws holding the vanity to the wall (usually through a mounting rail inside the cabinet). Lift the vanity away once all connections are freed.
What's the hardest bathroom fixture to remove?
Cast iron bathtubs are by far the most difficult, weighing 300-500 pounds and often requiring two people or professional help. They're usually broken into pieces with a sledgehammer for removal. Fiberglass tubs are much easier—you can cut them into manageable sections with a reciprocating saw. Alcove tubs require removing one row of surrounding tile to access the mounting flange.
Should I try to save and reuse my old fixtures?
Only if they're in excellent condition and you plan to use them elsewhere. Toilets older than 1994 use 3.5+ gallons per flush (vs. modern 1.28 gallons), making them wasteful. Old faucets often have worn cartridges and corrosion. However, high-quality fixtures less than 10 years old in good working order can be donated to Habitat for Humanity ReStore or similar organizations.
Do I need to turn off the main water to the house?
Not necessarily. Most bathrooms have individual shutoff valves for the toilet and sink (look under the fixtures where supply lines connect). If these valves work properly, you only need to turn off those specific valves. However, if the valves are old, corroded, or leak when turned, shut off the main water to be safe. Always test shutoff valves slowly before relying on them.
Ready for the Next Step?
With fixtures removed, you have a clear workspace to begin demolishing tile and wall surfaces. This is where renovation really starts to look dramatic.