How to Plan Your Bathroom Tile Layout
A well-planned tile layout is the difference between a professional installation and an amateur one. Taking time to dry-lay tiles, minimize cuts, and balance your pattern prevents expensive mistakes and ensures your bathroom looks intentionally designed, not haphazard.
Quick Summary
Time needed
1-2 hours
Difficulty
Medium
Cost
Free (planning only)
Why Layout Planning Makes or Breaks Your Tile Job
Most DIY tile disasters happen not because of poor installation technique, but because of poor planning. A hasty layout decision made in 5 minutes can haunt you every time you look at your shower for the next 20 years.
Professional tile setters spend 15-20% of their time on layout planning because they know it determines the final look. Here is what proper planning prevents:
- Thin tile slivers: Narrow cuts under 2 inches that are difficult to cut and install cleanly.
- Unbalanced patterns: One side has full tiles while the other has tiny pieces - looks amateurish.
- Awkward focal points: Grout joints that land right in the middle of niches or windows.
- Wasted materials: Poor planning leads to excessive tile cuts and 20-30% more waste.
- Lippage issues: Uneven tile surfaces caused by starting from an unlevel reference point.
What You Need for Layout Planning
Layout planning requires measuring tools and visual aids, not installation materials yet. You are still in the thinking and planning stage.
Required
- Tape measure (25-foot minimum)
- Chalk line or pencil
- 4-foot level
- Sample tiles and spacers
- Calculator
Nice to Have
- Laser level for perfect lines
- Graph paper for sketching
- Tile layout software or app
- Straight edge or long level
Step-by-Step: Planning Your Tile Layout
1. Identify Your Focal Wall
The focal wall is what you see first when entering the bathroom. This wall gets centered, balanced tile layout. Other walls can have off-center cuts - they are less visible.
Common Focal Walls
- • Shower wall opposite the entry (what you see when door opens)
- • Wall with the showerhead and controls (most visible when showering)
- • Wall behind a freestanding tub (architectural feature)
- • Wall with a niche or window (natural focal point)
2. Measure Accurately (Include Grout Joints)
Measure each wall from corner to corner. But do not just count tiles - you must account for grout joint spacing, which adds up significantly.
The Grout Joint Formula
Wall width = (Number of tiles × Tile width) + (Number of joints × Joint width)
Example:
60-inch wall ÷ 12-inch tiles with 1/8-inch joints:
• 5 full tiles = 60 inches
• 5 joints × 0.125 inches = 0.625 inches
• Total space needed = 60.625 inches
Result: You will need a small cut tile to finish
This is why you cannot just divide wall width by tile width. Those grout joints add up and change your layout plan.
3. Dry-Lay Tiles on the Floor
This is the most important step. Lay tiles out on the bathroom floor with spacers between them, mimicking your planned wall pattern. This reveals problems before you mix any mortar.
4. Avoid Tile Slivers (The Golden Rule)
If your dry layout shows a cut tile smaller than half the tile width at either end, adjust your starting point. The goal: cut tiles should be at least 50% of a full tile, preferably larger.
Bad Layout
- • Left side: full tiles
- • Right side: 1-inch sliver
- • Looks unbalanced and amateurish
- • Thin pieces break during cutting
Good Layout
- • Center the pattern
- • Left side: 6-inch cut (half tile)
- • Right side: 6-inch cut (half tile)
- • Balanced, intentional, professional
5. Plan Around Niches, Windows, and Features
Niches, windows, and built-in shelves are natural focal points. Your tile layout should frame these symmetrically, not leave odd cuts at the edges.
Shower niches:
Center full tiles above and on sides of the niche opening. Avoid grout joints that line up with niche edges - they collect water.
Windows:
Center the tile pattern on the window. Equal cuts on left and right sides create symmetry.
Tub surrounds:
Start with a full tile at the front edge (most visible). Cuts go at the back wall where they are less noticeable.
6. Mark Your Layout Lines
Once you have determined the optimal layout through dry-laying, mark reference lines on the walls and floor. These guide your installation.
What to Mark
Horizontal line: Use a level to draw a perfectly level line where your first full row of tile will sit. This is your most critical reference.
Vertical centerline: Mark the center of your focal wall if you are centering the pattern.
Floor layout lines: Snap chalk lines showing where tile rows will run. Check that they are square to each other.
Pattern changes: Mark where accent borders, pattern transitions, or tile size changes occur.
7. Double-Check Before You Start
Before mixing mortar, verify one more time. Once you commit to a layout and start setting tiles, changes are expensive and messy.
- Check that all reference lines are level and plumb
- Verify no cut tiles are smaller than half width
- Confirm focal walls have centered, balanced layouts
- Take photos of your dry layout for reference during installation
Common Tile Layout Patterns
Your pattern choice affects both the visual impact and the complexity of installation. Choose based on your skill level and desired aesthetic.
Stacked (Grid) - Easiest
Tiles align both horizontally and vertically. Clean, modern look. Easiest to install but shows imperfections more than offset patterns.
Best for: Large format tiles, modern bathrooms, beginners
Brick/Running Bond - Moderate
Each row offsets by half a tile (like bricks). Most popular pattern for subway tile. Hides minor alignment issues better than stacked.
Best for: Subway tiles, rectangular tiles, traditional look
Herringbone - Advanced
Tiles arranged in V-shaped zigzag pattern. Visually striking but requires many angle cuts. 15-20% more tile waste due to cuts.
Best for: Floors, experienced DIYers, statement walls
Vertical Stack - Moderate
Rectangular tiles installed vertically instead of horizontally. Makes ceilings feel higher. Popular with 12x24 tiles.
Best for: Small bathrooms, making spaces feel taller
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I center tiles on the focal wall or start from a corner?
Always center tiles on the most visible wall (focal wall) - typically the wall you see when entering the bathroom. This creates visual balance. Starting from a corner can leave you with awkward, thin cuts on the opposite side that look unprofessional.
What is a tile sliver and why should I avoid it?
A tile sliver is a very thin cut piece, usually less than 1-2 inches wide. These are difficult to cut cleanly, hard to install, and look amateurish. If your layout results in slivers, shift your starting point so the end pieces are at least half a tile width.
Do I need to account for grout joints in my measurements?
Yes, absolutely. Grout joints add up quickly. A 1/8-inch joint across 10 tiles adds 1.25 inches to your total measurement. Always include grout joint width when calculating how many tiles will fit.
What tile pattern should I choose for a small bathroom?
For small bathrooms, simple patterns like straight stack or brick/subway layout work best. Herringbone and diagonal patterns can make small spaces feel busy. Larger tiles (12x24 or bigger) with minimal grout lines make small bathrooms feel more spacious.
How do I plan layout around a niche or window?
Center the tile layout on the niche or window opening - these are natural focal points. Plan so full or large cut tiles frame the opening symmetrically. Avoid thin slivers at the edges of niches. Adjust your starting point on the wall to achieve this.
Ready for the Next Step?
With your tile layout planned and marked, you are ready to start setting wall tile. The hard thinking is done - now comes the satisfying work of installation.