Install Bathroom Vanity
Set the vanity level, attach securely to wall studs, and connect plumbing. Proper installation prevents water damage and ensures decades of reliable use.
Quick Summary
2-4 hours
$200-$1,500
Medium
Level, drill, wrench
Types of Vanity Installation
Installation method depends on your vanity style. Each has different mounting requirements.
Floor-Standing Vanity
Most common type. Sits on the floor with adjustable feet or toe kick. Still requires wall attachment for stability. Weight is supported by floor, making installation easier.
Easiest installation • Best for uneven floors • Most forgiving
Floating (Wall-Mounted) Vanity
Mounts directly to wall with no floor contact. Creates modern look and easier floor cleaning. Requires heavy-duty mounting brackets and must hit wall studs. No room for error.
Modern look • Harder installation • Must hit studs
Semi-Recessed Vanity
Basin partially extends forward over countertop. Common in small bathrooms to save space. Requires precise countertop cutout and careful sink positioning.
Space-saving • Specialized installation • Precise measurements needed
Installation Steps
Position and Check Level
Place the vanity in position. Use a 4-foot level to check front-to-back and side-to-side. Most floors are not perfectly level. Check both the top rim and the sides for plumb. Mark the floor position with painter's tape.
Shim to Level
Use plastic or composite shims under the low corners or along the base. Insert shims, check level, adjust as needed. Once level is perfect, mark shim positions with pencil, pull vanity out, and trim shims flush with a utility knife.
Locate Wall Studs
Use a stud finder to locate studs behind where the vanity will sit. Mark stud centerlines on the wall at the height of the vanity mounting rail (usually 2-3 inches from top). You need to hit at least two studs, preferably three.
Drill Pilot Holes
Position the vanity on its shims. From inside the cabinet, drill pilot holes through the mounting rail into the studs. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than your screw shaft. This prevents splitting the stud and makes driving screws easier.
Attach to Wall Studs
Drive 2.5-3 inch wood screws through the pilot holes into studs. Don't over-tighten - you'll crack the vanity back. Tighten until snug, then stop. For floating vanities, use the manufacturer's mounting brackets and follow weight rating specifications exactly.
Install Countertop and Sink
If countertop is separate from vanity, set it in place and secure per manufacturer instructions (usually silicone adhesive). Install faucet and drain assembly before setting countertop if access will be tight. Drop-in sinks install after countertop; undermount sinks attach before.
Connect Plumbing
Connect hot and cold supply lines to shutoff valves. Hand-tighten, then snug with wrench 1/4 turn. Install P-trap connecting sink drain to wall drain pipe. Don't use plumber's tape on compression fittings - they have rubber washers.
Caulk and Final Details
Apply a bead of silicone caulk along the back edge where vanity meets the wall. Also caulk around the countertop edge if it's separate from the vanity. Tool with wet finger for smooth finish. Install cabinet hardware (knobs, pulls) last.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Not Leveling Properly
An unlevel vanity causes doors to swing open or closed on their own, drawers to stick, water to pool on countertops, and stress cracks in stone or quartz tops. Always use a 4-foot level and shim until perfect. Don't rely on the floor being level.
Missing Wall Studs
Drywall anchors are not strong enough to hold a vanity, especially floating vanities. Always attach to studs with proper wood screws. If studs don't align, install horizontal blocking during framing, or use a different vanity size that hits available studs.
Over-Tightening Plumbing Connections
Plastic P-trap fittings and supply line nuts can crack if over-tightened. Hand-tight plus 1/4 turn with a wrench is sufficient for compression fittings with rubber washers. If it leaks, replace the washer rather than cranking it tighter.
Installing Faucet After Countertop
If space is tight, installing the faucet after the countertop is in place makes tightening mounting nuts very difficult. Always test-fit first. If access is limited, install the faucet and drain assembly on the countertop before setting it on the vanity.
Forgetting Shutoff Valve Access
Position the vanity so you can still reach shutoff valves and P-trap connections. Some vanities have removable back panels or access cutouts. Don't permanently block access - you'll need to reach these for future repairs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to attach a vanity to the wall?
Yes, always attach vanities to wall studs for stability and safety. Even floor-standing vanities should be screwed to the wall to prevent tipping. Floating vanities absolutely require secure wall mounting with heavy-duty brackets, as they have no floor support. Use minimum 2.5-inch screws into studs, hitting at least two studs.
How do I level a vanity on an uneven floor?
Use plastic or wood shims under the vanity base to level it. Place shims at low points and check with a 4-foot level across the front and sides. Once level, mark shim positions, remove vanity, trim shims flush with a utility knife, and reinstall. Most floors are slightly uneven, so shimming is normal and necessary for proper countertop seating.
Can I install a floating vanity without hitting studs?
No, floating vanities must be anchored into wall studs. They support the entire weight of the vanity, countertop, sink, and water with no floor support. Toggle bolts or drywall anchors are not strong enough for floating vanities. If studs don't align with your vanity mounting points, install a horizontal 2x6 or 2x8 backing board between studs during framing.
Should I install the faucet before or after setting the countertop?
Install the faucet before setting the countertop if access will be tight. It's much easier to tighten mounting nuts and connect supply lines when working on a flat surface. If you have good access from below (open vanity or removable shelf), you can install the faucet after. Test-fit first to determine which approach works better.
How tight should I make plumbing connections?
Hand-tighten all connections first, then use a wrench to snug an additional quarter turn (90 degrees). Over-tightening can crack fittings or strip threads. For supply lines with rubber washers, hand-tight plus 1/4 turn is usually sufficient. For P-trap connections, hand-tight is often enough since they have large rubber gaskets.