Hang Drywall on Sloped Ceilings
Transform your attic rafters into smooth cathedral ceilings. Use proper scaffolding, 5/8" drywall, and professional techniques for lasting results.
Why Proper Ceiling Installation Matters
Sloped ceiling drywall is the most challenging part of attic finishing. Unlike flat ceilings, every panel must fight gravity while following the roof pitch. Poor installation leads to sagging, visible seams, cracked joints, and popped screws that appear months later. The cathedral ceiling is often the most prominent feature of a finished attic, making quality especially important. Taking time to set up proper scaffolding, using the right thickness drywall, and following correct fastening patterns ensures a ceiling that looks professional and lasts for decades without callbacks.
Tools & Materials Needed
Step-by-Step Guide
Set Up Safe Work Platform
Proper scaffolding is essential for quality ceiling work:
- - Baker scaffolding: adjustable height, wheels with locks
- - Pump jacks: for longer runs along walls
- - A-frame ladder scaffolding: budget option for small areas
- - Drywall lift: holds panels against ceiling while fastening
- - Position platform 3-4 feet below ceiling for comfortable reach
- - Ensure stable footing on subfloor (not insulation)
- - Clear path for moving scaffolding as you progress
- - Have drywall stacked where lift can reach each piece
Mark Rafter Locations
Locate rafters for accurate screw placement:
- -Mark rafter locations on end walls and knee walls
- -Snap chalk lines across ceiling area if visibility is difficult
- -Standard spacing: 16" or 24" on center
- -Note any irregular spacing around dormers or openings
- -Mark blocking locations for electrical boxes and fixtures
Tip: Take a photo of rafter locations before covering with drywall. You'll need to find them for future hanging projects.
Plan Panel Layout
Strategic layout minimizes seams and waste:
- -Run panels perpendicular to rafters (long edge crosses rafters)
- -Start at the ridge and work down to knee walls
- -Stagger end joints at least 4 feet between rows
- -End joints must fall on rafter centers
- -Use 4x12 sheets to span more rafters with fewer seams
Pro Tip: Sketch panel layout on paper first. Calculate how many sheets you need and where cuts will fall. This saves time and reduces waste.
Cut and Prepare Panels
Accurate cutting ensures tight fits:
- Measure twice at multiple points (walls may not be parallel)
- Cut panels 1/4" shorter than measured for easy fit
- Score face paper with utility knife using T-square
- Snap panel away from cut, then cut back paper
- For outlets/boxes: measure from fixed reference points
- Cut box openings with drywall saw or roto-zip
- Smooth rough edges with rasp or sandpaper
Hang Panels with Drywall Lift
Install panels systematically from ridge to eaves:
- Load panel onto lift cradle, paper side facing you
- Position lift under installation location
- Crank panel up until firmly against rafters
- Adjust angle to match roof pitch
- Lock lift in position
- Drive screws while panel is supported
- - Use 1-5/8" drywall screws for 5/8" drywall
- - Space screws 12" apart along rafters (field)
- - Space screws 8" apart at panel edges
- - Keep screws 3/8" from edges, 1" from corners
- - Dimple screw heads slightly below surface
Handle Ridge and Transitions
Special techniques for peak and angle changes:
- - Butt panels tightly at ridge
- - Use flexible corner bead for angles
- - Or install decorative ridge beam
- - Leave 1/8" gap for expansion
- - Install sloped section first
- - Flat section butts against slope
- - Use corner bead for clean edge
- - Maintain consistent screw spacing
Inspect and Adjust
Check work before moving to walls:
- -Verify all screws are dimpled (not protruding or torn through)
- -Check that panels are tight to rafters (no gaps behind)
- -Confirm seams fall on rafter centers
- -Look for damaged edges that need repair or replacement
- -Add screws where needed - ceiling needs more than walls
Pro Tips
- -Have drywall delivered to attic before stairway walls are closed - sheets don't bend well
- -Apply construction adhesive to rafters for extra holding power on sloped ceilings
- -Work with a partner - one person positions while other drives screws
- -Keep drywall acclimated to room temperature for 24-48 hours before installing
Frequently Asked Questions
What thickness drywall should I use on sloped attic ceilings?▼
Use 5/8" drywall for sloped ceilings. It's stiffer than 1/2" and resists sagging over time. The extra thickness also provides better fire rating and sound dampening. For bathrooms, use moisture-resistant (green board) or mold-resistant 5/8" drywall. Standard 4x8 sheets work well, though 4x12 sheets create fewer seams.
Do I need a drywall lift for sloped ceilings?▼
A drywall lift ($40-60/day rental) is highly recommended for sloped ceiling work. It holds the heavy 5/8" panels in position while you fasten, reducing fatigue and improving accuracy. For small areas, two people with T-braces can manage, but a lift is safer and produces better results. Some lifts adjust for angled installation.
How do I handle the peak where sloped ceilings meet?▼
At the ridge, you have options: 1) Butt panels together for a standard seam (requires careful taping), 2) Install a decorative ridge beam that covers the joint, 3) Use flexible corner bead designed for odd angles. If the angle is close to 90 degrees, inside corner techniques work. For exposed ridge beams, install blocking between rafters and terminate drywall at the beam.
Should I install ceiling drywall before or after wall drywall?▼
Install ceiling drywall first. This allows wall panels to support the ceiling edges, reducing stress on ceiling fasteners and creating tighter corners. The sequence is: sloped ceiling panels, then flat ceiling sections (if any), then walls. This also makes taping corners easier since wall panels butt against ceiling panels.